Is a '95 that's for sale with failed UIM worth $400?
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Is a '95 that'* for sale with failed UIM worth $400?
Talked to an owner who has a '95 for sale with a failed UIM. He said car was running rough a couple months ago, garage said failed UIM. He took car home, about 2 miles he said and parked it. Tried to start it later and wouldn't start. Hydrolocked I imagine. Car has been sitting since then, a couple months he said.
Car has ~135k on it, said it ran fine before UIM failed. Said he had no tranny problems. Said body is good. I haven't seen the car yet.
He wants $400. Is it worth even going to look at it? Thanks for your opinions.
Dave
Car has ~135k on it, said it ran fine before UIM failed. Said he had no tranny problems. Said body is good. I haven't seen the car yet.
He wants $400. Is it worth even going to look at it? Thanks for your opinions.
Dave
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Find out how much you can get a motor for near you and get an installation quote also. I don't know where you are but around here a low mileage (under 50k miles) L36 goes for $350-400 and installation is $300. I am in an area that is cheaper for parts and labor (I know the shop guys fairly well, but their usual swap rate is $350).
I'm sure you already know this, but any engine in this scenario where there has been oil and coolant mixed, eating at the cylinder walls and the bearings, is nothing short of a paper weight with only a couple salvagable parts (LIM, starter, ....basically anything outside the block).
I'm sure you already know this, but any engine in this scenario where there has been oil and coolant mixed, eating at the cylinder walls and the bearings, is nothing short of a paper weight with only a couple salvagable parts (LIM, starter, ....basically anything outside the block).
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I wouldn't put a bullet in it just yet. I bought the '97 in my sig for $800 under approximately the same circumstances. I knew it had been overheated, so I pulled the heads. One had a crack (rare, I know), so I got a core and had it redone at the machine shop along with my other good head. I spent about $800 more, and had a good-looking, good running car for $1600. I drove it for almost a year, and sold it for $2800.
I'd definitely go look at it, personally.
I'd definitely go look at it, personally.
#4
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Write it off entirely. It'* sat for 2 months hydrolocked.
Chances are it'll need new rings, cylinder honing, rod bearings, crank turned etc.
In other words, unless you can find a replacement motor on the cheap, it'* not worth it.
Chances are it'll need new rings, cylinder honing, rod bearings, crank turned etc.
In other words, unless you can find a replacement motor on the cheap, it'* not worth it.
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Thanks for the replies guys. I was mainly interested is getting the car for parts.
Because of the knocking noise in my own '95 as in the post I titled "Anybody know what this engine/trans knock is? - Video" I was thinking I could use either the engine or tranny if I needed them.
After sitting for a couple months, the engine is probably shot though. Guess maybe I'll pass on the car.
Dave
Because of the knocking noise in my own '95 as in the post I titled "Anybody know what this engine/trans knock is? - Video" I was thinking I could use either the engine or tranny if I needed them.
After sitting for a couple months, the engine is probably shot though. Guess maybe I'll pass on the car.
Dave
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