1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

95 SSEi - Repairs list

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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 08:49 PM
  #31  
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my 95 had a TC light only and at other times I had a check engine light only. The two were completely unrelated.

EGR and probably wheel bearing... I'm letting the new owner hash out the TC light.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:00 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Originally Posted by VigCS
I'm going to have to be doing a lot of the same stuff for my 95 ssei -

1) New EGR (if anybody has a used one, hook a brother up)
2) Front left wheel bearing (found a great deal here ebay )
3) Fix the e-brake

Once those are fixed it should pass MD inspection. I'm not 100% sure if the ebrake is needed to pass though.[/url]
The ebrake should be required. And most likely it'* an adjustment or a frozen cable.

EGR valve check GMPD and see if it cross references with other vehicles and years. That'll be your best way to locate one cheap.
Thanks for the tip VigCS. After checking prices with our local suppliers (which were higher even with the exchange rate factored in), I ended up ordering the wheel bearing from ebay as you suggested. Hopefully it should arrive soon and Frank will install it when work slows down. Any other suggestions regarding the parts he originally mentioned at the beginning of this thread?

Once again, thanks for all your help.

Cathy
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #33  
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Cathy...here'* my recomendations..others will chime in where they know of better deals

1. Supercharger coupler - ZZP
2. Motor mount - Local Parts store
3. Wheel bearing (front driver side) Ebay
4. Emergency brake cable Local parts store
5. Major tune-up Local store
6. Valve cover gasket Local store
7. Transmission fluid leaking from pan Trans service kit from local
8. Door pins and bushings (driver side) eeek
9. Rear driver side window doesn't work need to check switches/motor
10. Cruise control doesn't work possible vaccum leak
11. Check engine light on. Have scanned...gotta know what the problem is.
12. Traction control off (light always on) See #3
13. Slight hesitation (recheck after tune-up) Yup
14. Air conditioner doesn't work You're in Canada...does it ever warm up?
15. Pulley below alternator (sounds like bearings) Measure and get at local parts store..

There ya go.. at least it'* a first pass.
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:22 PM
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Just FYI.. the front hub bearing takes some odd size socket. 36mm?? Or something weird like that.. ( can't remember the size off the top of my head right now )
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Old Feb 28, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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Thanks for the info Bill and Drifter. I'll follow up with what you've given me and let you know how I make out.

As for #14 Bill, hard as it may be to believe, we're not that far north from where you are. The sun does occasionally get hot enough for us to use the A/C. Anyway, I understand it'll come in handy when I get to the "hot flash" stage of my life. Frank has a few years to get it working before I get there!

Talk to you soon,
Cathy
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Drifter420
Just FYI.. the front hub bearing takes some odd size socket. 36mm?? Or something weird like that.. ( can't remember the size off the top of my head right now )
I believe it is a 34mm. You will also need a T-55 torx bit to remove the rear bolts. A hub puller makes the job much easier. Crappy Tire loans both the axle nut set (30, 32, 34, 36 mm) and the puller. The torx bit is only like $5 or $6.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 08:12 AM
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I can ask Toasty and Randman1... they both did them not too long ago.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 12:30 PM
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Toasty believes they are all 34mm on bonnevilles. That should be checked for your year to be sure.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 02:37 PM
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On the '95 the pulley below the alternator should be the idler pulley on the tensioner. If your local parts store doesn't carry it, it should no tbe too expensive from a Pontiac dealer. Mine was $35US, but local store should have one for less.

FYI - ZZP is zzp.com

If he'* planning on doing the tune-up himself, buy NGK, AC Delco, or Autolite non-platinum plugs only and AC Delco or Beldan wires.

Try to get rubber trans pan gasket, not cork. Re-use original if still good.
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Old Mar 1, 2006 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by faisalmali
Originally Posted by Drifter420
Just FYI.. the front hub bearing takes some odd size socket. 36mm?? Or something weird like that.. ( can't remember the size off the top of my head right now )
I believe it is a 34mm. You will also need a T-55 torx bit to remove the rear bolts. A hub puller makes the job much easier. Crappy Tire loans both the axle nut set (30, 32, 34, 36 mm) and the puller. The torx bit is only like $5 or $6.
Thanks for the info. I'll check Frank'* tool box to see if he has this. If not, I'll go to CTC as you suggested.

Cathy
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