Considering the security light, please try to do something. Remove the trunk lid insulator carpet (if equipped) and disconnect the wire going to the cable from the trunk lock cylinder.

Do you still have a security light when you turn the ignition on and try to crank?

Check the connection from the battery to the starter also.

The security light should NOT be on. It indicates a VATS problem, but the previous issues with it make it hard to diagnose.

Temp Hi-Jack.....

What does that wire that you're talking about do?

Never heard of it?

I was going to ask the same thing.

At least that is the cheaper of the two alternatives. If it'* not the issue now, it is likely to be one in the future. I'd do what Bill suggests first, with the resistor. If that doesn't work, you're not out anything but a little bit of time, and a couple of bucks. Not so with the starter.

So either way can I change the starter at the gas station. And I already have the dash cover off .

How do I have check the connectionfrom the battery to the starter, sorry if its a stupid question.

OK headed 30 miles away to see if I get car started. First vats bypass then starter I guess.

The only way is to get under the car, take the connection off, clean it up, and put it back on. Remove the negative battery connection first. Depending on the room, you may have to drop the starter anyway to do this. Another way, if you have jumper cables (which I think you said originally you don't have) and you'd have to be VERY careful not to short it to ground, is to run one side of the jumper cable from the starter connection to the positive battery connection. Getting a good connection on the starter would be tough.

One way to bypass the ignition system and VATS to test just the starter is to connect a jumper from where the postive lead from the battery goes to the selenoid, to the ignition connection next to it on the solenoid. If the starter runs, that'* not the problem. Again, be careful not to short to ground.

Follow the red wire off the battery down to the front of the engine...pretty much dead center of the engine compartment......That'* a PITA though...not a lot of room to work down there none the less see.

That cable in the trunk lid is to set off the factory alarm if the trunk lock cylinder is tampered with. It will not prevent a start. But I'm trying to weed that out as the cause of the security light for aid in troubleshooting.

If you have a security light at all times, this is the cause 75% of the time, as the small tamper tab on the cylinder breaks off with age, and sets the light. Disconnecting the connector prevents a ground to the security module, preventing the light if this is the cause.

Mine is disconnected on my 93 for this reason. It'* not worth it to me to replace the trunk lock cylinder.

I am thinking it is vats issue