Hi Damemorder,
I will remove the ICMS from the bracket tomorrow and scuff that area as well.
Aubie

Hi All,
Today I again removed the Alt and coil bracket and cleaned(scuffed) the plate that holds the ICM to the bracket. Still no loose or unattached wires, ground or otherwise, reassembled everything and still no spark from the coils to spark plugs. Any other suggestions as to my "no spark" issue?
Thank you all for your assistance.
Aubie

if it doesnt fire on any cylinders i would suspect a connection problem or fault in the ignition control module.....can autozone or advance test the ignition control modules on these cars? worth a try....

Hi Ianman68,
I'll call Autozone tomorrow and see if they can test the ICM out of the car, its worth a shot.
Thanks for the idea.
Aubie

They can, But their test is worthless.


6e3-a-26

Engine cranks but won't run.

Thing to try
What to do

Disconnect the camshaft sensor, Will the engine start? (DTC 41)
Very lengthy, could be like 10 parts and alot more testing

Are the spark plug wires good? (less than 30K ohms)
Replace the set - $30

Coil secondary resistance 5-8K ohms at 70*?
Replace coils that aren't - $50 each

Coil primary resistance at .5 to .9 ohms?
Replace coils that aren't - $50 each

Remove one coil, and put a test light on the terminals under it. If you crank the engine, the light should blink, Does it?
Replace the Ignition Control Module - $120 - $150

Hi All,
I have followed all of the suggestions that have been offered to try to resovle my no spark issue and to this point in time I am where I started a couple of weeks ago. I have been to the auto wreckers and have tried two different ICM'*, disconected the crank sensor, used a test light while cranking the engine on the ICM'* contact points at the coil positions and checked my coils, grounds etc.
I want to thank ALL of you for taking the time to lend me some of your experiences by way of the advice you all have offered to me. The sledge hammer is moving closer to the top of my list as my best solution
While using the test light on the ICM with coils removed, and the engine cranking I would only see it light up on only three of the "tips' (every other one) and then it was just a steady light as it is when the key is in the on position, not a pulsating one, whlie the the other three would not light up at all. Those are the symptoms of the ICM while cranking.
In the morning (friday) I'll be towing it to a shop to have someone look at it.
Again my thanks to all.
Aubie

Sounds like shorted ICM (under the coils) Thought. . . are the Coils on in the right sequence?
Could be firing out of order.
If it is the ICM, I have one (used)with NEW wiring harness. $75.00 If you need it.

the crank sensor is also in that area. when moms belt broke on her 91, it took out the crank sensor. the car would crank and crank and crank but would not start. we replaced that little sensor and poof it worked. is it possible that it maybe it shorted it out when the fluids were spraying everywhere? just a suggestion

If you unplug the crank sensor it definatly won't start. If the symtoms didn't change with the sensor disconnected, I'd put that at the top of the replacement list. Make sure you don't install a Wells brand sensor, Usually sold at AutoZone. A Borg-Warner would be better, and an OEM the best.

If the crank sensor is shorted or disconnected, it disengages the fuel pump (car thinks the engine is not running, like after an accident) but earlier you stated not getting spark. I'd still look at the ICM.