hi thanks to the icm test procedures provided by danthurs that I found in the TS section was very helpful.this would be sort of a continuation my thread that I started back some time titled.'94' bonnie se non turbo runs erratic'.ok with an intermittent recent no spark condition.i narrowed it down to moving a wire or 2 at the icm connector to get it to start.i hope that this is the only problem but before I found it I did the icm/cps test in a no start situation..when I got to the cps portion I didn't get the readings I was to be expecting turning the crank by hand w/ or w/o a rachet handle.i then used the starter as well and got the same readings not within specs. so I then determined it to be a non working cps. I pulled the damper and found my oil seal leak. I inspected the teeth on the wheel and cleaned, I also inspected and cleaned the grooves on the cps as well.put it together and it started and ran for sometime and then stumbled and died...ok well it is ruled out to be a bad connection at the icm connector.my question is now that I got the car to start every time I turn the key is can icm'* or crank sensors intermittently fail and run rough or do they just fail altogether and not work at all? I still have a jittery slight uneven running engine.i put in new plugs and wires,tested coil packs(most likely cold engine),cleaned and greased module ground plate,didn't do a compression test,did do a fuel pump test(I think and also fpr test as well ,it'* been long ago I forgot).yet it still has a slight misfire shake..i solved the problem with the car lunging/loping at idle speed in drive and at high speed jolting misfire on highway.that threw a code for the egr,but to be absolutely sure I had to test the egr first.i don't have access to the big scan tool my buddy had(?) and I don't have any kind of scanner that will read this 1 or 1.5 obd..the mil lite came on a few times but it'* out for now.i would like to get it.i was starting to think that my security dash lite that'* been on for I don't know how long had anything to do with it..it always starts and runs with it on but not when I first got the car many years ago-it came on when I was trying to start it,over and over a few times.until I sprayed wd-40 in the lock and key. it then started and light went out.never had a light come on until a least a year now..i think I read some where that the key resistor pellet and cylinder lock must be clean and dry..any help will be appreciated thanks.