93 Door Lock Actuator - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 08-30-2005, 12:11 AM   #1
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Default 93 Door Lock Actuator

Well I finally got my alarm/keyless entry to work this weekend, but the power lock on the driver’* side doesn't work. It wasn't much of a problem before, but now that I've got the keyless entry working, I'm hoping I can fix it. I bought a cheap 2 wire actuator for $5 online awhile back, but I'm not sure if it'll work. I took the door panel off, and it looks like the actuator is built into the whole latch assembly with all the rods coming off it. Is it the actuator I'm seeing that'* built into the assembly? Would the actuator I bought work? I can't find any diagrams of power door locks.

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Matt
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:25 AM   #2
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The factory actuator is a separate part but mounted right on the latch assembly. Does the actuator work only one way or is it dead in both lock and unlock? If it'* only one direction (or partial movement in either direction) you probably need a "bumper kit". This is little bushings that fit into the latch assembly and make a tight connectoin to the rod from the actuator.

Yes, you can use that aftermarket actuator to work the power lock but quite frankly, I'd hit the junk yard and get an OEM replacement. You'd have to mount the aftermarket actuator parallel to the manual lock rod, bend the supplied rod in such a way that it can travel unimpeded in both directions and wire up two relays. Pretty high on the pain-in-the-arse scale unless you are experienced with them.

there'* a chance that I still have one in the 97 donor car but I'd have to check. It might take a couple of days before I can get up there and look though. We'd also have to check part numbers and make sure it is right for the 93
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:40 AM   #3
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Thanks for the reply. The actuator motor still works, I'm not sure if it'* the gears or the bushing that are bad. When locking you can feel a little pull, but unlocking it doesn't seem to move at all. Also, when I try to unlock the doors with the remote, the key won’t turn in the door. I'm guessing the actuator is moving a little, but locking something up in the assembly.
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Old 08-30-2005, 12:51 AM   #4
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Probably the bumpers. Still requires removal of the latch/actuator assembly though. the bumper kit is around $10 and is available from the dealer... junk yard actuator will be about the same.

Quote:
Also, when I try to unlock the doors with the remote, the key won’t turn.
Can you explain further? When you use the remote (and the driver'* door fails to unlock) you can't use the key in the door to unlock?

Personally, I wouldn't install the aftermarket actuator but if you decide to do that then you can omit the two relays in my previous post. You can use the factory wires.
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:39 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info. I'll try the bumper kit first. Does it come with instructions as to where all the replacement pieces go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
Quote:
Also, when I try to unlock the doors with the remote, the key won’t turn.
Can you explain further? When you use the remote (and the driver'* door fails to unlock) you can't use the key in the door to unlock?.
Yeah, that'* what happens. If you lock it manually, the key will turn and unlock the door fine. But if you lock it manually, then try to unlock it through the power locks, it seems the actuator engages half way, and the key won’t turn in the lock. So you have to unlock it from the inside manually.

I'll get the bumper kit from the dealer and try that out. Is that the actual name of it? I searched Google, but didn't come up with anything.

Thanks,

Matt
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattwz
Thanks for the info. I'll try the bumper kit first. Does it come with instructions as to where all the replacement pieces go?

Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
Quote:
Also, when I try to unlock the doors with the remote, the key won’t turn.
Can you explain further? When you use the remote (and the driver'* door fails to unlock) you can't use the key in the door to unlock?.
Yeah, that'* what happens. If you lock it manually, the key will turn and unlock the door fine. But if you lock it manually, then try to unlock it through the power locks, it seems the actuator engages half way, and the key won’t turn in the lock. So you have to unlock it from the inside manually.

I'll get the bumper kit from the dealer and try that out. Is that the actual name of it? I searched Google, but didn't come up with anything.

Thanks,

Matt
Check GMpartsdirect.com for the kit. It will take a little but the price is usually better. Personally I'd hit a local junkyard/wrecker. Cheap, available and in stock
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:07 PM   #7
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Do you know the part number for the kit? I can't find it on the site. Closest thing I found was the door window motor :\.

Thanks
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Old 08-30-2005, 09:44 PM   #8
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I found the TSB for the bumper problem:

Quote:
INOPERATIVE POWER DOOR LOCKS, LOCKS WILL FUNCTION MANUALLY#63-10-41B
REVISION: 11/17/97

SUBJECT: INOPERATIVE POWER DOOR LOCKS, LOCKS WILL FUNCTION MANUALLY (REPLACE EXTERNAL BUMPER ON ACTUATOR ARM).

MODELS: 1991-96 BUICK PARK AVENUE; 1992-97 BUICK LESABRE, SKYLARK; 1995-97 BUICK RIVERIA; 1997 BUICK REGAL; 1992-97 CADILLAC ELDERADO, SEVILLE; 1994-97 CADILLAC DEVILLE, CONCOURS; 1995-97 CHEVROLET LUMINA; 1994-97 CHEVROLET CAMARO; 1995-97 CHEVROLET MONTE CARLO; 1997 CHEVROLET MALIBU, VENTURE; 1991-96 OLDSMOBILE NINETY EIGHT; 1992-97 OLDSMOBILE ACHIEVA, EIGHTY EIGHT, LSS; 1995-97 OLDSMOBILE AURORA; 1997 OLDSMOBILE CUTLAS, REGENCY, SILOUETTE; 1992-97 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE, GRAND AM; 1994-97 PONTIAC FIREBIRD; 1997 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX, TRANS SPORT; 1996-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC “G” MODELS; 1996-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC “*/T” MODELS; 1996-97 OLSDMOBILE BRAVADA.

CONDITION: SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT ON INOPERATIVE POWER DOOR LOCKS (FRONT AND/OR REAR DOORS). DOOR LOCKS WILL STILL OPERATE MANUALLY.

CAUSE: CONDITION MAY BE CAUSED BY RIPPING OF THE EXTERNAL BUMPER WHICH ALLOWS THE ACTUATOR ARM TO DISENGAGE.

CORRECTION: REPLACE EXTERNAL BUMPER ON ACTUATOR ARM.

IMPORTANT: ON AURORA AND RIVERIA FRONT DOOR LATCHES WITH THEFT DETERRENT, THE LOCK ASSEMBLY MUST BE REPLACED. DO NOT USE THE INSTRUCTIONS BELOW.

1. REMOVE THE DOOR LATCH ASSEMBLY. REFER TO SECTION 10 IN THE SERVICE MANUAL.

2. SEPARATE THE ACTUATOR FROM THE LATCH ASSEMBLY BY REMOVING TWO SCREWS.

3. REPLACE EXTERNAL BUMPER ON ACTUATOR ARM WITH NEW BUMPER SUPPLIED IN SERVICE KIT. {88948572 Door Actuator Bumper Kit (Grp#10587) Pontiac Bonneville Service Kit}

IMPORTANT: THE OLD STYLE BUMPER IS NEUTRAL OR WHITE IN COLOUR AND SHOULD BE REPLACED WITH A NEW BLACK BUMPER. DO NOT ADD ANY LUBRICANT TO THE BUMPER OR BUMPER AREA.

4. INSTALL THE ACTUATOR TO THE LATCH ASSEMBLY.

IMPORTANT: ENSURE THAT THE LOCK SWITCH TEETH ARE PUSHED ALL THE WAY TOWARDS THE ACTUATOR ARM AND THE LATCH IS IN THE FULL OPEN POSITION.

5. REPLACE LOCK ROD CLIPS SUPPLIED IN KIT.

6. REINSTALL LOCK ACTUATOR.

7. INSURE PROPER OPERATION OF LOCKS.

Also the part number
Quote:
GM PART # 88948572
CATEGORY: All
PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $7.50
OUR PRICE: $4.44
DESCRIPTION: BUMPER KI
Go to the dealer and pay the $7.50 instead of waiting 4 weeks to save 3 bucks
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:04 PM   #9
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Awesome Thanks for the info. How often is it that the bumpers are the problem? Could it be the gears worn out in the actuator? I wish I took a picture when I had the door panel off. On the right side of the latch assembly, it looked like a rod in a tube was moving up and down when I locked and unlocked through the power lock switch. It was hard to tell since it was getting dark out and its a really tight space. I'm hoping the actuator is still good.
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Old 08-30-2005, 10:16 PM   #10
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Since there was a TSB released, I'd have to say that it was enough of a problem for GM to notify service centers. There are several posts on this forum that discuss it too. If you do a search for "bumper kit" (make sure to select "search for all words" or you;ll get a ton of posts about front and rear bumpers). That'* where I found the TSB
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