He said he visually checked it. How many times have you pulled a fuse thinking it was good, but discovered by testing it, was no good? I have! That'* what I gandered when he said he got it to restart because he replaced the fuse.

My 94 was cranking but not turning over this weekend.. turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor. I would say start with pulling the ICM and having it tested at Autozone. Free and eliminates that possibility. Check primary and secondary ignition coil resistances.

If you disconnect the camshaft sensor and it starts, then it is probably an IAC issue if I'm correct. We'll let one of these more experienced guys confirm that.

Sorry for the delay in my continued testing, thank you for your assistance so far. Car is outside and temps have been around 5f so when the sun goes down it'* really cold.

Anyway, yes, I did test the fuse (after I replaced it) and it was good. Today, going on the assumption of a short to the injectors I pulled back the loom on the wiring harness and noticed a couple of splices. Tested continuity through the splices looked good. Cranked the car over... still no joy.

So moved on to testing power to the injectors. Good solid 12v to them on hot side. Ground side there was resistance but not complete continuity, dunno if this is normal or not. Went in to grab the wife to crank it over to check that ground was being pulsed properly. She starts to crank and I see the meter start jump and..... the engine starts to fire. So, plug the unplugged injectors back in, and it fires right up. :/

So, I haven't done anything between the last attempt to fire it up and this one, but now it'* running. There'* has to be a short or pcm problem or something, and I don't like problems going away where I can't point to a "I fixed this" solution. With the car running I gave all the wiring harnesses a good shake, even the wires into the pcm under the dash. Wouldn't die.

Could it be the cold weather and the pcm? Thinking over what was done the only thing new today is that I've left the key in the run position for longer than usual due to testing power to the injectors. I know electronics can get temp sensitive.

The intermittancy is leaning me toward a pcm. 92-93 aren't overly common for issues. However I have seen and experienced some. Like Peter who had a 92 with tons of knock and no other symptoms. Finally out of desperation the pcm was changed. The car ran beautifully.

The ground to the injectors is controlled by the pcm. Not sure what resistance/etc you should find there. It'* interesting that when you were messing with the fuxe (nearish the pcm) that the car started.

This is going to sound wacky..I promise it'* a certified advanced method of testing though.
Start the car (if it will)
Stomp on the floor next to the drivers door sill.
Stomp on the floor by the passenger footwell and especially up near the firewall (pcm area).
Then stomp on the floor by the passenger door sill.

The door sill tests are checking the ground busses that are located by each. There once was a member whose car wouldn't run until he stomped by the drivers door sill. And he drove home stomping. Cleaned the ground buss and it never happened again.

Stomping by the pcm is desiged to check for cold solder joints etc that might be acting up due to weather etc.

You gonna do an article for our Tech Info area Bill? Before GM comes in and patents your idea!

First I think you and I need to go to that reading course. We've both tried to fudge this one a couple times..lol

I know.

LMAO, and I thought having my turn signals out was a hazard.

I'd actually left the car running. So I went out and did the stomp test at the areas indicated. Didn't die or sputter. Decided to give the all the wires another shake test still stayed running.

Maybe I'll get another pcm just to say I did something.

Well, if you do. Keep the old one as a backup.