92 SSE not starting consistantly - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-07-2008, 10:18 PM   #11
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Thanks Big Poppa I'll give this a shot right after dinner. Car started twice today just a few minutes ago in fact. Yes the engine will crank until I drain the battery. When I pulled the steering wheel off my parts Bonnie I noticed the small yellow wires to the switch and one was broken which now would explain why the guy I bought it from could not ever start it. I've seen this before on the forum but was wondering, I've seen replacement switches but they don't have the VATS system does a Pontiac dealer have these or are they out of date?
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Old 10-08-2008, 12:08 AM   #12
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392BONNIES,
I am not sure on parts availability as you well know our rides are what 16yrs old!!! Try a few calls but don't get your hopes up! Be careful with any wires that are "Yellow" on your steering column, they are air bag related and you don't want any problems with that sucker going off. Research that post i set you up with and get yourself a by pass wire going and that should get you back on the road again!! keep us posted!!
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Old 10-09-2008, 12:29 AM   #13
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As soon as I reread that last reply of mine I realized it was rightfully going to be mistaken for the airbag wires. Actually they were white wires inside the orange casing. I haven't got the bypass put together yet but will shortly. Funny thing I switched one of the boxes down by the ECM and Airbag CM and the car has been starting all day and last night. Any idea what are the other units down in that area, one is bolted in place the other is heald in place by a spring clip. The last is the one that was swapped with my parts car. I believe that one of those 2 is the control for the remote/security system.
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Old 10-09-2008, 03:39 AM   #14
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Hold the phone! If your car is cranking over, then this is NOT a VATS issue. VATS will completely shut the starter down, no crank. No need to do the VATS fix. Any codes stored in your computer?
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Old 10-09-2008, 02:19 PM   #15
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Right! Right! if the motor turns over then it is definetly NOT a VATS issue. That is one hundred percent correct! my bad...however now she is strating and running good...now for the part you swapped out could it possible som sort of relay???
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Old 10-09-2008, 11:09 PM   #16
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I wasn't sure if it was a VATS related issue. The car does turn over and does very well. I have not done the VATS bypass as there have been a couple of other emergencies. Though for the last 2 days the car has been starting and running well, every time it is turned off it starts back up again. My wife even filled the tank back up with gas. I'm still not 100% confident that it is fully fixed yet. I don't have a code reader so I'm not sure about the codes it may have lit up. As of now the security light is on and the traction control light is on, all of the guages are functioning within normal parameters. Somehow the spark goes away then comes back. I believe that the small box I replaced last is the oil level module. What that does I'm not sure but if it was not working correctly would it keep spark from going to the engine so as not to allow it to start with low oil and possibly damage the engine?

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Old 10-09-2008, 11:13 PM   #17
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If your getting a check engine light getting those codes will help us a lot. Try to get to autozone or any other parts shop and see if they can scan and get codes. Then post them and we will see what we can come up with.
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Old 10-10-2008, 09:55 AM   #18
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392Bonnies,
Danthurs is right on. Try to get that bonnie scanned and see what pops up. As for the oil level module preventing the car from starting...is way over my head! I still believe you got a bad/defective Crank sensor from the parts store...not that hard to imagine it happens all the time! get scanned and please post us as soon as you can, best of luck!
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Old 10-11-2008, 01:31 PM   #19
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Got the codes checked. The lights flashed what looks to be a 31 code 3 long and 1 short. Which when reviewing notes from previous post indicates a Cam sensor fault. On the other hand in a more generic haynes manual at the same Autozone parts store it also said Neutral safety switch. The Cam sensor has been replaced earlier though it has been probably 9 months. The Cam position sensor is $20 bucks compared to the NSS which is $82 bucks. Thoughts? Another thought about 6 months ago I did need to replace the trans in the car as it was making alot of noise while driving (had a spare from parts car).

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Old 10-11-2008, 01:59 PM   #20
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More on Cam sensor, after a minute or two of thought, the NSS would not even let the engine crank if it was bad so it'* off to get another Cam sensor. Question how long does it take to clear the codes in the OBD1?
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