92 SE keeps stalling - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-25-2007, 03:46 PM   #1
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Default 92 SE keeps stalling

Ok, the last 2 days the 92 SE has been acting up. The other day on the freeway I had cruise set at 75 and all of a sudden the car jolts froward and it drops down to 65 when I turned on the headlamps. Today I went and started it and put it in reverse and it almost died. Then I got home and put the brake on and was about to shift or shifted back to park (dont remember) and it died. I checked some things under the hood, then turned the key and it fired right up. I let it run for a few minutes, then I get in the car and press the brake and it died again.


Corroded battery cables was the first thing that came to my mind, any other ideas?
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Old 07-25-2007, 04:21 PM   #2
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Have you closely inspected all the vacuum hoses? I would start there since a vacuum leak is typically easier to track down than an electical fault.

Have you added any new electrical features? Ie. remote start, head unit, etc.?
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:18 AM   #3
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Yes, I have remote start and a hand unit, but neither were installed in the last year.

In going to blame it on the tire rotation people since it started happing after I got the tire rotated

I'll check the vacuum hoses today, my voltage has seemed to be running low for awhile also, it is running right above the red line on the left side of the gauge. But it has been like that for awhile and never caused any problems before.
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Old 07-26-2007, 10:39 AM   #4
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Your alternator is most likely not funcitioning properly and by turning on the headlights you took power away from the ignition system.

Have both your battery and alternator tested asap. Also check all your connections on the battery cables at both ends of all cables.. Remember to remove the boots and look for corrosion there as well.
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:15 AM   #5
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Ok Bill, I was planning on a trip to Autozone today so I will get that done asap.

Will post back once I get them tested.
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:18 AM   #6
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Don't buy a Duralast alternator!! They're junk!
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:34 AM   #7
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Alright, just got back from a small drive.

Car started fine. Put it in reverse, it died. Started it again, put it in reverse, dies. Put it in neutral and start it, coast out of the driveway (thank god for the tiny slope) put it in drive and it goes just fine. During the drive I put on my turn signal and the voltage dropped along with my speed. So I am pretty sure it is the alternator. When I got back to the house, I parked so I could coast out, and put it in reverse to see if it would stall, and it didn't.

Off to get ready to go do some shopping in a bit and get the Bonne tested. And I will be sure not to get a Duralast Vital, maybe thats what is causing the problem, I'm not sure what type of alternator it has now though.
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Old 07-26-2007, 11:46 AM   #8
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Best of luck by the way.

Your battery is VERY weak at the moment and apparently not being charged by the alternator or alien forces. You might want to charge it a bit before you leave if you have a battery charger.
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Old 07-26-2007, 02:54 PM   #9
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Ok, I attemped to go but turned around because it kept beeping and the speedo would keep turning on and off so I just turned around so I wouldn't have to wait for a tow if she decided to shut down. I will have to take the alt off the car and get it tested.

If I do get a new alt should I get aa 105 or 140? I dont put subs or anything in my car so is there any benefit for getting 140
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Old 07-26-2007, 02:58 PM   #10
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The only benefit would be if you had extra money burning a hole in your pocket..it would relive you of the extra cash.

You will need to get your battery charged as well.
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