92 Bonneville SSEi-----HELP!!
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From: Ab,ca
check sensors to... I think I was getting a 30'ss code when my mass air flow sensor went (basicly unplug the sensor, then try it... it will go into pannic mode, but it will still run ok)
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From: Sauk Centre, MN
Yes, that is what my parents car was doing was revving smoothly in neutral or Park, but when you put it in gear (under load) and tried revving where the higher fuel pressure is required it would bog because the fuel pump was overheating (eventually did this even when cold).
My parents had had the fuel filter taken off and that was good as the gas flowed through that no problem.
Again, I am not gaurunteeing it is the pump, but it is my belief that that is what your problem is due to the symtoms being an exact reflection of my parents which was cured once the new pump and tank were put in.
When this problem is figured out you will want to put new spark plugs and a new oxygen sensor in as one or more plugs will probably have fouled out and the o2 sensor will have seen lean conditions for too long.
Good luck again and keep us informed how this comes along,
Martin
My parents had had the fuel filter taken off and that was good as the gas flowed through that no problem.
Again, I am not gaurunteeing it is the pump, but it is my belief that that is what your problem is due to the symtoms being an exact reflection of my parents which was cured once the new pump and tank were put in.
When this problem is figured out you will want to put new spark plugs and a new oxygen sensor in as one or more plugs will probably have fouled out and the o2 sensor will have seen lean conditions for too long.
Good luck again and keep us informed how this comes along,
Martin
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From: Geilenkirchen, Germany
92 Bonneville SSEi-----HELP!!
If the TPI were bad, I think that I should get a 21 or 22 code, right? Also, OLBlueEyesBonne I already had the fuel system checked and it was good. I'm going to see what I can find on the mass air flow sensor. I will post later.
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Re: 92 Bonneville SSEi-----HELP!!
Originally Posted by aaahn
If the TPI were bad, I think that I should get a 21 or 22 code, right? Also, OLBlueEyesBonne I already had the fuel system checked and it was good. I'm going to see what I can find on the mass air flow sensor. I will post later.
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From: Geilenkirchen, Germany
92 Bonneville SSEi-----HELP!!
I pulled the maf sensor and I checked the resistance. I got 4 Meg between B and C. Open between any other. What should I be reading and does temp effect the resistance on this.
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From: Robbinsdale, MN
According to Chiltons online:
TESTING
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
1. Visually check the connector, making sure it is connected properly and all of the terminals are straight, tight and free of corrosion.
2. With the engine running, lightly tap on the MAF sensor and wiggle the wires at the connector, while watching for a change in idle speed. A common problem is MAF sensor wire damage.
Fig. 2: MAF sensor circuit
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...3/89634g56.gif
3. Backprobe using a DVOM set to the Hertz scale between terminals A and B. Simulate operating conditions by blowing air across the sensor. There should be a frequency swing from the air crossing the wire in the sensor. A normal flow signal will be close to 1200 hertz. If the frequency is not shown, or not proportionate to the air blown across the sensor, the sensor is faulty.
Fig. 3: Attach a DVOM to the MAF sensor electrical connector’* top and middle terminals and check for a 5 volt reference signal
Fig. 4: Check the middle and bottom connector terminals for 12 volts
Fig. 5: Connect a DVOM to the MAF sensor and check the air flow’* corresponding voltage reading (0.144 volts in this case) ...
Fig. 6: ... then use a hair dryer to blow air into the sensor and note the fluctuation in the reading
4. Check for battery positive (B+) voltage on terminal C and ground on terminal B. If voltage or ground are not present, check the circuits back to the PCM for continuity.
5. If you receive the proper amount of voltage at the electrical connector and still have a driveability problem, replace the MAF sensor.
6. If the sensor and circuits are functional, the PCM may be faulty.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
See Figures 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
1. Visually check the connector, making sure it is connected properly and all of the terminals are straight, tight and free of corrosion.
2. With the engine running, lightly tap on the MAF sensor and wiggle the wires at the connector, while watching for a change in idle speed. A common problem is MAF sensor wire damage.
Fig. 2: MAF sensor circuit
http://www.cybrrpartspro.com/Chilton...3/89634g56.gif
3. Backprobe using a DVOM set to the Hertz scale between terminals A and B. Simulate operating conditions by blowing air across the sensor. There should be a frequency swing from the air crossing the wire in the sensor. A normal flow signal will be close to 1200 hertz. If the frequency is not shown, or not proportionate to the air blown across the sensor, the sensor is faulty.
Fig. 3: Attach a DVOM to the MAF sensor electrical connector’* top and middle terminals and check for a 5 volt reference signal
Fig. 4: Check the middle and bottom connector terminals for 12 volts
Fig. 5: Connect a DVOM to the MAF sensor and check the air flow’* corresponding voltage reading (0.144 volts in this case) ...
Fig. 6: ... then use a hair dryer to blow air into the sensor and note the fluctuation in the reading
4. Check for battery positive (B+) voltage on terminal C and ground on terminal B. If voltage or ground are not present, check the circuits back to the PCM for continuity.
5. If you receive the proper amount of voltage at the electrical connector and still have a driveability problem, replace the MAF sensor.
6. If the sensor and circuits are functional, the PCM may be faulty.
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re: help
Another thing I forgot to mention about the problem that'* happening on the '92 SSEi I am looking at is while the whole running issue is going on, also, all the gauges act wonky, jumping all over the place, then still, then wonky. I don't know if that makes any difference or not, thought I'd add it in case!
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It sounds like a problem I had in a differnt car (Daytona Shelby) and it was something called a "pickup" which should be part of the ignition system. When they go bad they overheat, i think, and it caused my car to just shut down. Then after letting it sit for a few min I could start the car again. it got worse, ie. quicker to stall, the longer it went unchanged. I'm not sure this will apply to your situation but it may be worth looking into.
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From: Sauk Centre, MN
One thing you goota remember here -our Bonnevilles are distributorless. The pickup plate (also known as the hall effect) sits between the distributor and the cap/rotor.
I have seen that problem countless times in the Shelby Dodge club. Luckily haven't had that problem in my Lebaron TURBO GTC Convertable (motor is out of a TII Daytona Shelby).
P.*. What year was your Daytona Shelby and was it a TI, TII or TIV? Fun cars when they are running.
I have seen that problem countless times in the Shelby Dodge club. Luckily haven't had that problem in my Lebaron TURBO GTC Convertable (motor is out of a TII Daytona Shelby).
P.*. What year was your Daytona Shelby and was it a TI, TII or TIV? Fun cars when they are running.