I have a 92 Bonneville with 160K that will just stop running at anytime. The issue is fairly recent with the exception of one time 2 years ago. The car will run great and then suddenly lose power. The car will remain in a no start condition(turns over but not run) for and hour or 2 then start and run normally.
The engine is non- SC. I verified there is 45psi at the fuel rail and getting liquid fuel back through the return line. I did finally get the engine trouble code (no check engine or SES lights are illuminated) by jumping the OBD connector and the only code was 17 (CPS). As I understand it the car should still run in limp with no CPS signal. The engine stall/no start condition is getting worse as in more frequent. Any ideas? Love my car but I need it running (so I can get away from the wife)!!

I would start with testing the crank position sensor. This can cause the engine to die. As I understand, the cam sensor can do the same thing, 1 in 6 times if I remember right.

Is code 17 crank or cam sensor?

According to the book it is a cam position sensor

Is there a way to correctly position the crank sensor without the "special" tool?

I think you need it because your engine is a series one but I need back up on this.

My car stops running at random times and sometimes during the no start condition I will have fuel pressure and sometimes not. The only codes I am getting is a 17. Before I start throwing random parts into the car, I think that maybe a grounding point on the car could be the culprit. Does anyone know the locations of these points so I can check them (visual condition/ continuity, etc)?

dh2dh2I got the car home (it shut down again after replacing the Cam Position Sensor) and was able to check for spark...No spark. I am strongly leaning towards a crank postion sensor. Would that make sense?

Well, I dug down deep and proceeded to replace the crank position sensor with out the specials tools required. In place of the fly wheel tool needed to keep the crank from turning as you attempt to loosen the harmonic balancer retaining bolt, I used the edge of a pry bar and engaged a tooth on the fly wheel so that the tool was against the body on the trans. A helper is needed unless you did what I did and wedged the tool against the floor with a door stop. Worked like a charm. As for the "special" tool need to located the sensor (Per the repair guide- Position the sensor, with the pedestal attached, on crankshaft sensor installation tool J 37089 or equivalent), instead I used a feeler guage and using a very convenient lip on the block as a reference point gapped the new sensor within .001" of the original, which worked quite well. So far 4 days and many miles, driving the car harder than normal, it is running fantastic. Even took the opportunity to top up the freon.
Want to thank everyone for their input.....Gonna take the car for a ride now...well, after work.

Job well done. yeah the pry bar in he fly is the way to go. If you are lucky enough to have an impact wrench you can zip it right off.