Force the wastgate into bypass, and take that belt off. I'm curious about that still.

Sorry if I'm being redundant but how do I bypass the waste gate again?

It's a plumbing thing (vacuum lines). The Boost Control Solonoid (wastegate) is located between the SC and firewall. Little square doohickey under the SC cover (kindof above and between the #4 and #6 cylinders). Take a pic of it the way it's supposed to be hooked up so you can go back, then swap the lines around. I don't remember which is which, but it's posted in forced induction in 2 or 3 different threads.

You may not need to do this, the car should at least idle without the sc.

Hey Will, I've looked but haven't found the post you were refering to. Could you set up a link to it for me?

OK, here's the plan. Tomorrow I'll put on the new alternator, then it's off to the shop. I think it's almost worth the $60 or so it will cost to know for sure instead of guessing. I will post results tomorrow afternoon as the car goes in at 1:00pm. Thanks for all the help and keep your fingers crossed for me if you could.

I just had a 93 N/A come up with the issue you are describing, and unfortunately, there are two possibilities here... one involves the worn bearing described by others. having a machinist remanufacture the rods and shaft can be expensive.

"two" involves a loose shaft which I've been told can be caused in a 3800 series 1 by the retention mechanism wearing through the front valve cover. this is much easier to fix. I'm pretty sure your year would have this sort of retention. My 93 Bonne' was not so lucky, and now I have one reconditioned engine from a company called Jasper.

Water pump failure will probably be the last thing to check. It isn't likely on your car, and the RPMs will be different also.

Pray for "two." I know this is late, but hopefully still useful. By the way, if this car was driven like this for awhile, more than likely it should have thrown the rod already, so keep hope alive!

What did that reconditioned motor cost you?

OK UPDATE! I finally got the full story from the previous owner.
He was heading on an off ramp when he lost all power in the car. (I know this can be an issue as I read in the post on this site) He pulled the car over but couldn't get it started right away. He then had the car towed home where it sat a few days. He then went out and found alot of oil under the car. He had it towed to a mechanic who basically said he didn't want to deal with it and changed the oil. The car was towed back to his house. It was after this that the last owner started it and heard the click. It was driven here a few weeks later with almost no gas. and Here I am now. Maybe this will stit up some more ideas.

Oil is brown. No leaks at this time. Pressure is good on start up and I'm going to go and start it and let it warm to see about it then. When Will and I went over it it seemed fine les the alternator and this cliking.

OK, I let it warm up and no change in pressure at idle. Steady at about 55psi. No obvious leaks, smooth idle.