Considering I've had the car for one day, I'm amazed at the community here. There's a simalar feeling in the club I'm in for the chrysler, but mainly because the of the cars short production period and numbers. I would have never expected that here, but don't mind it one bit either. I'm really motivated to hook this car up :twisted:

What a trip! I got bedsores on my ass. Fun though. Blew some cars off the road. They were in my way. Got into a hill climbing race with a 325i on the way back. You'll see it in the video I'm working on. Ummmmm......he got out of my way, too, but wasn't happy about it! :lol:

I'll get the engine noise video posted here very soon!

Glad you made it back in one piece. Those roads can be down-right deadly,also very fun when you have the road to yourself, but deadly. Thanks again for the help Will.

FUN roads. Love it. You'll see that video soon.

Here's the first clip of the sound:
http://home.comcast.net/~93ssei/justin92ssei.MPG

And here it is again.....watch where i put the stethescope:
http://home.comcast.net/~93ssei/justin92ssei2.MPG

According to the doctor, it's louder at the water pump, and muffled at the thermostat.....anyone hear a water pump like this? Thought it might be a balance shaft or bearing, but it's quiet on the TB end, and loud at the WP.

Scantool was also throwing a code 58, but the alt was only putting out 11 volts.

Thinking of the bearing, wouldn't you hear it on start up too?

THAT SOUNDS EXACTLY LIKE WHAT I HAVE!!!! Whoohooo someone else to share my pain. Ok so here's what I know of the "similar sound" comming from mine. From reading on several web pages about "noise diagnostics" it seems to point 98% towards whats called Rod Knock. Its basically when the rod bearing is worn down so much that there is a small gap between the rod cap and the crank. That click is the rod actually banging against the crankshaft, and in more severe cases also hitting the head/valves. A rod bearing makes more noise at the oil pan than elsewhere. Hold RPMs at 2500, jerk the throttle open and let it snap closed. This will accentuate rod knock. Now's the time to starting shorting out cylinders. A rod knock will double its cadence when the spark plug associated with the cylinder making noise is pulled. Check those things out. If that is the case it sucks man but in most cases the only fix is to pull the engine and do an overhaul. In some cases you could just drop the oil pan and replace the bearing but it sounds like yours is to the point where its been beating itself up so much that the crank would be scored and needing a regrind. I really hope I'm completely wrong on what it is, for both of our sake.

Btw, this is the only confirmed audio of rod knock I can find:

http://www.ae92gts.com/downloads/randy_rod_knock2.wav

This is from the cab so its a bit muffled but you can still hear it.

EDIT> I also found this that sounds much more like what you have
http://freeautoadvice.com/sounds/rodknock.wav

That sounds like bad news, but I still don't understand why it sounds so severe at the waterpump and nowhere else? This was checked with a stethescope.

Ok, but those sound like a constant sound. On Mine it turns over fine and you hear nothing until 2000rpm?Is that possible?

Here's one of the most important questions. How huch money am I looking at having to spend? I know I don't have the time or money to put into this acr. I've got another car that does that, not to mention a family. I also know that if I sell this car for the $500 I paid, I'm a fool. What would it take to fix this problem.