1997 wont blow out the center a/c vents, WHY? - Page 12 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 07-04-2005, 03:02 PM   #111
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I just read the article in the link above. Good information. That might be the reason I can not get the "clear female connector" removed from the programmer. I mentioned this tom someone involved this discussion via PM but I don't remember who it was exactly.

The author describes verifying that there is vacuum from the source by disconnecting the black to violet connection. This is not an easy task in our cars as the connection lives beind the dash structure.

Here'* a thought. If you remove the driver'* hush panel and look above the gas pedal, you will see the Bi-level valve vacuum acutator (vacuum actuator). There will be two vacuum lines, one white and the other light green, going to it. The white one is easier to remove and just happens to be for the dash vent setting. Disconnect and listen for a hissing sound and/or put your finger over the end of the line to check for vacuum. If there is vacuum present then the vacuum actuator is faulty. If there is no vacuum present then the problem is more than likely the programmer itself or the one indicated within the link above.

Incedently, I removed the programmer screws with a 90* screwdriver adaptor. I believe I saw them at Home Depot once:

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Old 07-04-2005, 04:30 PM   #112
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I'm gonna steal that tool from him before this 90 project is through.
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Old 07-04-2005, 05:31 PM   #113
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That looks like a toilet handle almost. What is it?

Yes I will go out and pull off the drivers side to see if I get vacuum there. That article was very informative. I had found it before I had joined the Bonneville club and had it in a favorite folder. Once I started trying to fix all this I remembered it.

Im thinking of taking my blower motor out and banging it around or lubricating it. What do you think? Yeah f you don't know the blower quit. So its now priority one.

Thanks Rand and Bill.
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Old 07-04-2005, 06:16 PM   #114
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The tool is a right angle driver. Works great for nice tight places.
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:03 AM   #115
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The blower motor decieded to work last night. I think my car is really a cat. It'* got its own mind.
Strange
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Old 07-06-2005, 10:15 AM   #116
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could be dirty contacts etc. How'* the AC issue coming along?
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Old 07-06-2005, 12:54 PM   #117
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My 1997 H-body FSM'* came yesterday. I am going to review, and dig in this weekend. james, I'll call you Saturday a.m. to walk you through what I can find.
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Old 07-06-2005, 01:18 PM   #118
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Ok, what would be a dirty contact. Would that be where the fuse is or where the wire goes to the blower motor?

I did take off the connection to the blower motor and look at it. Everything loojked good no corosion.

I will be taking apart the hvac box as soon as i can finangle a tool to get the nut off. Im going to try and fit a socket on there and turn it by a wrench. If that doesnt work Im going to try going throught the glove box. If that doesnt work Im seriously going to consider cutting a brace behind the glove compartment.

Then move on to bypassing the hvac junction thing like popatim did. Before I do that I will check where Randman said on the drivers side.
TADA...
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Old 07-07-2005, 02:20 PM   #119
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Removed the Drivers side privacy panel under the dash and Yikes... Justt to much stuf under there. Couldnt see where the thing was that Randy was talking about. Actually I didnt look hard enought I know.

Got the second nut off. ***** It will come off with a 7mm wrench. It hurtst your fore arms because it take 15 mins to get out but it comes out.

Now I guess I magiacally expected the unit to fall out. Go figure, it did'nt. Now what?


I am sure I can't get to the passenger air mix connector cable. I can get to the programmer cable. I can't figure how to pull it off.

Man I wish that stinking male female junction box would just pop out. Plus when I pull the program cable off should I disconnect the neg battery cable?

Closer......
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Old 07-07-2005, 02:58 PM   #120
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Is it loose, now? If so, it should be "hanging" by the cables/connectors. I believe the neg battery cable should be disconnected. I read a little more in the FSM last night. Not at home now, but, I remember that the air/mix door connecting rod needs to be unhooked, then programmer cable removed (held on by a couple of "ears/latches" on each side, Then reach up between programmer and kick panel, over the top of programmer to get to air/mix actuator cable connector (ears/latches like the programmer connection). Best I can do for you at the moment, buddy, without being at home!
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