1995 Oldmobile 88 Royale possible ECM issue - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 03-17-2013, 11:20 AM   #11
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get some spare wire and jump power and ground on the pump side of the connector, could be from different battery if you have one
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:48 PM   #12
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I haven't found a way to hook the fuel pump directly to 12v yet, but we strongly suggest the fuel pump is bad.
It only primes sometimes, and reaches a max PSI of about 13 to 15.
Slight hint of gas smell in the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator, but aside from that, most things are pointing to a bad pump :(.
Is there any info on here pertaining to replacing a fuel pump. I cannot seem to find one, and I would loooove some pictures.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:17 AM   #13
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start soaking the fuel line junctions and strap bolts with wd40 now. the only thing i see searching is a youtube link. that doesnt apply because its talking about a service hole which they didnt start until 2000
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:41 AM   #14
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I'll ante that up to PB Blaster for pre-soak.

Here'* what your going to probably need to pre-order.

Fuel tank straps.
Sending unit
Sending unit lock ring.

Most people have difficulty removing the straps because of the cheap factory mounting hardware that is difficult to remove. So I typically suggest cutting the straps and once the tank is out of the way, it makes it easier to remove the old hardware. Which usually only consists of a rotted lock nut.
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike1995 View Post
I'll ante that up to PB Blaster for pre-soak.

Here'* what your going to probably need to pre-order.

Fuel tank straps.
Sending unit
Sending unit lock ring.

Most people have difficulty removing the straps because of the cheap factory mounting hardware that is difficult to remove. So I typically suggest cutting the straps and once the tank is out of the way, it makes it easier to remove the old hardware. Which usually only consists of a rotted lock nut.

Don't forget the large O ring that seals the pump to the tank. It'* only $4 or $5 but you don't want to be in the middle of your repair and realize you need it. I bought mine off Rock Auto.
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Old 03-18-2013, 08:30 PM   #16
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Awesome guys,
Thanks for the tips. I will be doing my very best to find a way to power it directly before I do this, because no one wants to see WeaD after replacing a fuel pump for no reason. It could get ugly... lol
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Old 03-18-2013, 09:40 PM   #17
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I guess I'm glad your way out in Sasquatch country. Wherever that is.
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Old 03-18-2013, 10:44 PM   #18
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I seen a Sasquatch once,,,,,
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:11 PM   #19
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Its in Canada good sir,
We are the giant trapazoid in the very middle. Right in the middle of the bald praries, and currently just set a new snowfall record that has not been touched since 1956 or something like that.
Also, we call them Saskaquaches here. Well ok, we dont, but I now do.
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Old 03-20-2013, 01:26 PM   #20
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Does anyone know where to hit the plug for the fuel pump with power to make it just run. I have over a half tank in the car, and we have not been able to get it out. To top it off the tank has to tilt heavily to the side the fill pipe was on. If we try to tip it out as is, it will spill. we also have not been able to get a hose in there.
I did not want to start just randomly poking power to the various wires, as that seemed....well....potentially stupid... lol
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