1994 stuttering/sputtering at low RPMS - Page 3 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-10-2005, 04:16 PM   #21
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10mm on a battery cable? I thought they were always 8
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:21 PM   #22
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Definitely reset or clear the code to see if it is fixed. Also, here is a thread in which the owner had a new MAF sensor that was bad, so it can happen.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...&highlight=maf
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Old 11-10-2005, 05:26 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo SSEI
Definitely reset or clear the code to see if it is fixed. Also, here is a thread in which the owner had a new MAF sensor that was bad, so it can happen.

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...&highlight=maf
Well, we put in a new MAF sensor (as I said above)...

Battery unhooked for an hour. Drove back to the Advance Auto Parts.

Codes reset.
Quote:
Vehicle Scanned
1994 Bonneville
L=3.8l SFI

Diag. Trouble Codes

System Pass:
No Faults Detected.
Service Engine Soon light still on. Engine still stutters and sputters at low RPMs.
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Old 11-10-2005, 07:49 PM   #24
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I would next check the ECM. I bought my bonneville for $800.00 from a dealer in Geneva NY. They had the car parked behind the shop. The guy said it would stall out quite often which it did. After the car warmed up, it would begin to run like ****. I replaced everything from the coil packs, mass air flow sensor, and the crank position sensor. Finally, I said what the hell, I replaced the ECM and the problem went away. Car has run great ever since I replaced the ECM. Check you ECM and replace it. I got a used one from the junk yard for $30.00.
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Old 11-11-2005, 12:40 PM   #25
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For Sale: 1994 Bonneville SLE. 1G2HX52L0R4209722
Location: Portland Maine Area

Persistent problem with idling. Aside from that, engine is in good powerful shape. Cosmetic and light slightly out of socket on left hand side from sideswipe accident. Front windshield cracked along bottom at least 75% of length. Leather interior, driver side seat has a good amount of wear, but no interior of the seat is coming out. Reasonably new tires. No water damage, single owner.

Perhaps some of you enthusiasts would be interested in body parts, mouldings, etc. Feel free to ask, I can also give pictures of any specific area you would like: I have a digital camera and am net-adept.
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Old 11-11-2005, 01:38 PM   #26
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How much for the car
If you want more exposure for selling this car, post it for sale in the "For Sale or Trade"
forum. Make sure you include lots of photos. Looking forward in seeing your car
-Toddster
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:50 PM   #27
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HAHA! Here'* another development. As I was out shopping for Jettas today, I had the DEFROSTER running, but at about 75% capacity. The car had gotten so heated up that the Air Conditioner (!) kicked in, and guess what that caused....Slow sputtering and stuttering.

So, keeping the AC and / or for this time of year the DEFROSTER (or only at max) will solve 75% of the problems that I'm having. It still has the problems when COLD, but when warm, and under the above (lack of) conditions, it runs as good as it ever has, which is rather well.
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:26 PM   #28
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It sounds like maybe you have a bad coil, or ingition module. It definately would show up when the engine is under a load. Have you check your Idle Air Control Valve?
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Old 11-11-2005, 07:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrw1234
It sounds like maybe you have a bad coil, or ingition module. It definately would show up when the engine is under a load. Have you check your Idle Air Control Valve?
Engine performs BEAUTIFULLY under load...it'* only at slow rpms that it acts up...
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:01 PM   #30
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That is why he is suggesting checking the IAC. It controls the idle.
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