1994 SSEi Brake Caliper Removal? - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 08-03-2005, 02:24 PM   #1
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Default 1994 SSEi Brake Caliper Removal?

I think it'* time for some new rotors and pads, so i'm going with ceramic pads and stock Advance Auto rotors. Thing is, i faintly remember changing the pads last time using a hex key (which was a bit of a hardship) instead of a TORX bit. Can anyone tell me what tool is needed for the caliper removal? Is it necessary to lube the piston and clean the new rotors? Also i'm curious if a C-Clamp is just as good as a brake tool for pushing back the piston.....?

Thanks in advance. I'm still kinda new at this whole "do it yourself" thing......
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:40 PM   #2
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Default Re: 1994 SSEi Brake Caliper Removal?

Quote:
Originally Posted by brnvs
I think it'* time for some new rotors and pads, so i'm going with ceramic pads and stock Advance Auto rotors. Thing is, i faintly remember changing the pads last time using a hex key (which was a bit of a hardship) instead of a TORX bit. Can anyone tell me what tool is needed for the caliper removal? Is it necessary to lube the piston and clean the new rotors? Also i'm curious if a C-Clamp is just as good as a brake tool for pushing back the piston.....?

Thanks in advance. I'm still kinda new at this whole "do it yourself" thing......
Don't use Ceramics with basic rotors. You need quality hardened rotors, preferably slotted (not drilled).

It is hex. No need to lube the piston, other than anti-squeak on the pad backs. Clean the new rotors with brake cleaner. C-clamp will work fine. Use a block of wood on the piston face.
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:49 PM   #3
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Or instead of a block of wood, I usually use the old inner pad.
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Old 08-03-2005, 03:23 PM   #4
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And, before you push the piston back, open the bleeder valve on the caliper. This will prevent contaminants in the fluid from your caliper and flex-hose from being pushed backward into your finely valved, needs to be kept very clean, master cylinder. A lot of master cylinders are ruined this way.

If you like, run a small vinyl hose from the bleeder to a container to catch the old fluid. Close the bleeder screw before you let go of the c-clamp to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.

Take a few extra minutes to save yourself the time and expense of otherwise unnecessary repairs.
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Old 08-03-2005, 04:36 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bill buttermore
And, before you push the piston back, open the bleeder valve on the caliper. This will prevent contaminants in the fluid from your caliper and flex-hose from being pushed backward into your finely valved, needs to be kept very clean, master cylinder. A lot of master cylinders are ruined this way.

If you like, run a small vinyl hose from the bleeder to a container to catch the old fluid. Close the bleeder screw before you let go of the c-clamp to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.

Take a few extra minutes to save yourself the time and expense of otherwise unnecessary repairs.
also by opening the Bleeder valve it prevents damage to the ABS system
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Old 08-03-2005, 09:58 PM   #6
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I have read numerous entries about ceramic pads and stock rotors. I had my calipers, rotors and brake pads replaced over a year ago. I have ceramic pads and stock rotors and have not had any problems at all.
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laydbaak
I have read numerous entries about ceramic pads and stock rotors. I had my calipers, rotors and brake pads replaced over a year ago. I have ceramic pads and stock rotors and have not had any problems at all.
That was my impression as well- I wanted Ceramic pads to cut down on dust, as well as for better heat disipation, but was turned off on the slotted rotors by the fact that they were $80 each. My car just went over 101K miles and i am thinking i'll probably only own it another year or two......

...On the other hand, i certainly respect will'* opinions, so now i gotta rethink my plan.

The stock rotors were going to be $20 each and pads were $60 for the set.
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