1994 SSEi Brake Caliper Removal?
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1994 SSEi Brake Caliper Removal?
I think it'* time for some new rotors and pads, so i'm going with ceramic pads and stock Advance Auto rotors. Thing is, i faintly remember changing the pads last time using a hex key (which was a bit of a hardship) instead of a TORX bit. Can anyone tell me what tool is needed for the caliper removal? Is it necessary to lube the piston and clean the new rotors? Also i'm curious if a C-Clamp is just as good as a brake tool for pushing back the piston.....?
Thanks in advance. I'm still kinda new at this whole "do it yourself" thing......
Thanks in advance. I'm still kinda new at this whole "do it yourself" thing......
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Re: 1994 SSEi Brake Caliper Removal?
Originally Posted by brnvs
I think it'* time for some new rotors and pads, so i'm going with ceramic pads and stock Advance Auto rotors. Thing is, i faintly remember changing the pads last time using a hex key (which was a bit of a hardship) instead of a TORX bit. Can anyone tell me what tool is needed for the caliper removal? Is it necessary to lube the piston and clean the new rotors? Also i'm curious if a C-Clamp is just as good as a brake tool for pushing back the piston.....?
Thanks in advance. I'm still kinda new at this whole "do it yourself" thing......
Thanks in advance. I'm still kinda new at this whole "do it yourself" thing......
It is hex. No need to lube the piston, other than anti-squeak on the pad backs. Clean the new rotors with brake cleaner. C-clamp will work fine. Use a block of wood on the piston face.
#4
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And, before you push the piston back, open the bleeder valve on the caliper. This will prevent contaminants in the fluid from your caliper and flex-hose from being pushed backward into your finely valved, needs to be kept very clean, master cylinder. A lot of master cylinders are ruined this way.
If you like, run a small vinyl hose from the bleeder to a container to catch the old fluid. Close the bleeder screw before you let go of the c-clamp to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.
Take a few extra minutes to save yourself the time and expense of otherwise unnecessary repairs.
If you like, run a small vinyl hose from the bleeder to a container to catch the old fluid. Close the bleeder screw before you let go of the c-clamp to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.
Take a few extra minutes to save yourself the time and expense of otherwise unnecessary repairs.
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Originally Posted by bill buttermore
And, before you push the piston back, open the bleeder valve on the caliper. This will prevent contaminants in the fluid from your caliper and flex-hose from being pushed backward into your finely valved, needs to be kept very clean, master cylinder. A lot of master cylinders are ruined this way.
If you like, run a small vinyl hose from the bleeder to a container to catch the old fluid. Close the bleeder screw before you let go of the c-clamp to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.
Take a few extra minutes to save yourself the time and expense of otherwise unnecessary repairs.
If you like, run a small vinyl hose from the bleeder to a container to catch the old fluid. Close the bleeder screw before you let go of the c-clamp to prevent air from being sucked into the caliper.
Take a few extra minutes to save yourself the time and expense of otherwise unnecessary repairs.
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I have read numerous entries about ceramic pads and stock rotors. I had my calipers, rotors and brake pads replaced over a year ago. I have ceramic pads and stock rotors and have not had any problems at all.
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Originally Posted by laydbaak
I have read numerous entries about ceramic pads and stock rotors. I had my calipers, rotors and brake pads replaced over a year ago. I have ceramic pads and stock rotors and have not had any problems at all.
...On the other hand, i certainly respect will'* opinions, so now i gotta rethink my plan.
The stock rotors were going to be $20 each and pads were $60 for the set.
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