would it help if i could get pictures? of the icm

Coils should be in this orientation:


Standing FACING the engine, it'* 1, 3, 5 for the front three cylinders left to right.
Rear is 2, 4, 6 left to right (passenger side to dirver'* side).

Here is the corrrect placement of the coils for you. Picture is worth 1,000 words right

Bill, I posted the correct coil placement above.

Some may not see your laser engraved numbers. It'* all good...

Ok fellas, i got the codes from the mechanic today this is the codes he gave me


code-43

code-23

code-58(but the car cranks and idles for a while)

code-56

could one of these cause the other codes or is it smart to replace them all?
thanks, again guys for all your help

Can you PLEASE put your year and model in your signature? And post your codes with the descriptions in Techinfo so we don't have to go look it up?

IF you have 92 (I forget, cuz we have thousands of members here), ignore the code 58. It'* a known bug in the 92 pcm. If not, we need to know what year you are.

ok sorry

ok the codes are

code-23 intake air temp iat sensor circuit(low tem indicated)

code-58 pass key module (i know about the fault on this one)

code-56 quad-driver (qdm)"b" fault

code-43 knock sensor electronic spark control circuit

The reason we need your information in your signature is that the QDM failures differ between the L27 that you have and the L67, and because in your future posts, we won't know what you have.

Ignore the 58. All 92'* do that. You know that now.

Plug your IAT sensor back in. It'* in the back of your airbox.

QDMB is either a transmission shifting issue, a boost control issue (which you don't have in an L27), or an EGR issue. EGR issues usually set a different code, so I'd be watching for shift issues if I were you, particularly with OD. Does the TC lock at about 48mph, dropping your rpm'*? Any other shifting issues from 1-2 and 2-3?

Check to see if your knock sensor wire is too close to a spark plug wire. It'* on the back side of the engine on the passenger side. Make sure the wire isn't shorted. Make sure there isn't another mechanical noise that may set it off.

How many of these codes are 'current' and not 'history'? Your mechanic should know. If you want CURRENT codes, scan them yourself with the procedure in Techinfo.

My advice at this point is to connect your IAT sensor, then disconnect the negative battery cable for 20 minutes. After reconnecting, start the car and idle. If the 43 code comes back at idle, you likely have a problem with the sensor or wiring. You should have no knock at idle.