100% water in cooling system
HI all,
I had blown my upper intake a few months ago. Finally got everything fixed. Since the PO had added leak stop I had planned to flush it out. THe instuctions on the flush say to remove all the collant and replace it with 100% water + their flush and drive for 6 hours total.
I have just performed this I noticed the operating temperature of the car is now up to 250 on a short drive. It bounced to 200 and back to 250.
Is that normal with 100% coolant or do I have another problem?
Thanks.
I had blown my upper intake a few months ago. Finally got everything fixed. Since the PO had added leak stop I had planned to flush it out. THe instuctions on the flush say to remove all the collant and replace it with 100% water + their flush and drive for 6 hours total.
I have just performed this I noticed the operating temperature of the car is now up to 250 on a short drive. It bounced to 200 and back to 250.
Is that normal with 100% coolant or do I have another problem?
Thanks.
Just a guess but I'm thinking that the temp sensor needs some antifreeze in the coolant to operate properly, i.e. electrolytes to conduct current. I used to have a p/u camper where the fresh water level indicator wouldn't work without a teaspoonful of salt in a 30 gallon tank. After replacing the water with a 50/50 mix of water and antifreeze I would guess that your temp gauge will return to normal operation. May take a few miles and driving cycles for the PCM to relearn after the errant signals it received.
2004 Bonne SLE
1971 Chevelle SS
2004 Bonne SLE
1971 Chevelle SS
https://www.gmforum.com/mechanical-1...2005-a-304071/
in the first pic on the hose outlet for the thermostat
in the first pic on the hose outlet for the thermostat
Problem here is, running straight water like that with no cap on is bad.
One, when water hits 212*, it boils, when it boils, the water goes from a liquid to a vapor which then exits out the radiator.
Now'* the time to drain whatever water out, and replace with straight coolant, not the 50/50
One, when water hits 212*, it boils, when it boils, the water goes from a liquid to a vapor which then exits out the radiator.
Now'* the time to drain whatever water out, and replace with straight coolant, not the 50/50
i dont use that crap. so i have never had to try to get rid of it. i guess i would drain it and put more of the flush in, with the 50/50 and change it again in a few months or sooner if it gets nasty looking




