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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-22-2004, 07:36 PM   #21
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Obviously we are in quite the disagreement here.

I know having an FSM doesn't make me invinsible, but it gives me great power. I know a lot more about my car [in general] with it.

I had to do this teardown. The engine was leaking oil, and it was growing in amount since I have owned her. If you saw my intake, you would see where it was leaking [there were paths of oil all along the mating surfaces], and to the extent it was leaking. Was I required to take the whole engine apart? No. But I wanted to, I want to clean everything up, and I also wanted to do the porting.

A dremel isn't going to help me rebuild the engine, no. However it is going to do the porting [yes, I know it isn't as powerful as a die grinder, but I have time]. I have the tools for this, I am not sure what you were implying by your comment?

Well, when my mom drove her for the past 5 years, that car was only pushed to redline, maybe 5 times.

No, i'm not sure of myself, when is anyone ever 100% sure of something, WITHOUT actually doing it? What did the original hot rod builders, and backyard mechanics do to learn? But doing it wrong! That'* how. I am sure if you went up to any of these people, you would learn, that they learned by their mistakes. This is how I am going to learn. WIll I like it? No, but this is how I have learned all my life. I will probably keep going that way too.

I'm going to double over everything I do, no matter. Following the FSM to the letter is what I have been doing.

If you want to flame me, and get pissed, go ahead. If you want to support me, and watch to see what happens, go ahead. But, nobody is going to stop me. Once i have an idea, it'* pretty much all downhill from there. Remember this. You guys gave me advice, and I ignored it fully knowing the consequenses. So, I know in the end, I can blame nobody but myself.


-justin
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Old 11-22-2004, 08:13 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BonneMeMN
An FSM doesn't mean you're invincible, you need more then a book and some free time,
Right. And Justin, I wouldn't consider that Haynes manual that you have a Factory Service Manual, either. I bought one for my car now I use it as a really big coaster on my coffee table.

It might be suitable for general repairs but not for how deep you are now.
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Old 11-22-2004, 09:03 PM   #23
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I generally take a Haynes or Clymer with me on a trip because they do not take up much space. Of course I have a few full FSMs on my notebook (GM has permitted posting of a number of scans - .pdfs are preferred - but they are sometimes difficult to balance on a fender.
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Old 11-22-2004, 09:12 PM   #24
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Actually, I wouldn't have my heads off, if it weren't for the Haynes. It helps.. but I know it'* not even close to how good the FSM is. The Haynes has more relative information, which is good to grasp the concept, then the FSM gives me the full info I need to get the job done.

Quote:
Originally Posted by padgett
they are sometimes difficult to balance on a fender
I concur with that! I can relate completely! I always have the difficult task of where to put everything. I usually have my tools sitting on my trashcan, and I used to put cans on the air box, but since that is out, I have one less spot to put things. The wonders of having no workspace, I guess.


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Old 11-22-2004, 09:14 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by padgett
I generally take a Haynes or Clymer with me on a trip because they do not take up much space. Of course I have a few full FSMs on my notebook (GM has permitted posting of a number of scans - .pdfs are preferred - but they are sometimes difficult to balance on a fender.
Please tell me how you were able to obtain permission to post information out of the FSM on those other sites. You mentioned it before and I forgot to ask.
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opensourceguy
After some more searching, I found the bracket holding it on. It only says this in the Haynes, and only under "Engines" versus the "Engine Overhaul" catagory, because of course people that want to learn what an engine looks like without valve covers need to know that there is a bracket holding the front cylinder head on by the A/C compressor.

Guess it'* time for me to run off to Sears to pick up a Torx tool set.

EDIT: What kind of rotary tool attatchment should I pick up to do the porting? Any brand recommendations? I just have a generic rotary tool, if it matters.


-justin
I was going to rebuild the heads on my 351C in the ol' Torino once.

A few pointers if you absolutely insist on doing it yourself.

1) Valve seats cannot be replaced without machining. If you can run a CnC machine, you're set. You can, however, remove the seats, only if your good with a welder and cold water, along with good timing, but the cost savings versus the risks are not pretty.

2) Have a machine shop deck your heads. You'll need it for a firm seat. (Side effect is slightly more compression. :P )

3) If you're pulling the valves, or replacing the valves, get a very mild abrasive paste. Put the new valve against the seat with the paste between the valve dish and the seat. Clap your hands around the shaft and spin. This should match grind the valves to the seats nicely.

4)I would recommend using a die grinder and at least a 100 gal. air compressor to port and polish. For an excellent "Do It Yourself Port and Polish Guide" click on this link:

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/portdiy/diyport.pdf

Standard Abrasives has an excellent die grinder attachment kit, that'* brought out in that guide.

5) If you're unsure about anything in this project, stop immediately and consult some help.

Hope that helps. Admittedly, I din't read the rest of this thread, so I hope I didn't repeat anything.
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Old 12-06-2004, 10:17 PM   #27
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I'm back with another question .

I just got everything off [heads, exhaust, and tons of other crap]. Now, I have everything organized per cylinder, and intake or exhaust, HOWEVER, I cannot get the lifters out. Not a single one of them moves up or down. What gives? I don't want to take pliers to them, for fear of scratching.. is there a better method?


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Old 12-07-2004, 01:19 PM   #28
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They don't move one bit.. but lifter retainer? Hmm.. Nope didn't remove those. I can't go out to the car right now, as it'* pouring.. but it should die down shortly.. if it does, i'll post some pics.


-justin
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Old 12-07-2004, 03:55 PM   #29
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It was still raining, but there was enough of a break for me to go out there briefly. I removed that plate you talked about, and then there was a small plate around the lifters. I removed that, and pulled out a lifter, and I found out, to my suprise, that I have roller lifters! I thought I only had flat tappet, but nope, good ol' roller lifters here. The one I pulled, wasn't the least bit worn, and when I went to spin it, it spun nice and smooth, and kept going, so the bearings are still perfect in it. I must say, this is a great discovery for me . If the rain ever stops coming down, i'll take some pics.


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Old 12-07-2004, 04:28 PM   #30
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Damn, my Haynes Manual had pics of flat tappet.. but Haynes has proved so inaccurate.. I'm about to burn that damn book of lies! Anyways.. It does have next to nothing for wear.. which is badass for me .

Also a little update I forgot to put in here, about the rockers. When I started the disassembly of the rear of the block, I found the rockers were all tight as can be, with just enough play for me to wiggle the rods.. maybe 1/16".. So they obviously should not be that loose on the front. Not to mention, no matter the position of the piston, since all of the rockers were equal in their tightness. Guess that explains some of the "valve tick" I was experiencing.. and why it seemed to be much more apparent when standing in front of the engine. Oh well, that problem will be fixed, so all will be well .


-justin
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