Not sure how to test compression? You just need a compression tester, which consists of a pressure gauge on the end of a hose which is threaded on the other end to screw into your spark plug holes. Thread it in, turn the engine over with the starter, and read the gauge.

Most gauges hold pressure, so you can get a reading after you turn it over (rather than just while it'* actually turning over).

If you get a tester, I'd imagine that it would come with better instructions than that, too.

I also have new info. I smell a real strong gas odor from the tail pipe. More symptoms that one of the cylinders not firing.

I took off the acc belt this weekend, and the ticking sound remained. Can it be something other than the balancer? It'* comming from that area, but what else could it be? Crankshaft? Rods?

The more I think, it sounds like I have two problems. Timing and balancer.

This week I'm gonna get new plugs and wires in.

You've got an ignition miss. Sounds just like when I got two cylinders mixed up. Replace wires + plugs. Fix ya right up. But get GOOD QUALITY wires.. Not the cheap **** they offer at Autozone. I hear good things about the Belden'* at Napa. 8mm of course. However, that is for the Delco Ignition, and a 92+er.. Don't think they have it for the Magnavox, 88-91. So if you don't have the Delco, now may be the time to upgrade. Try to keep driving to a minimum with a miss, or at least take it easy on the throttle. The fact you couldn't get over 50MPH really tells me that it is ignition related, because I remember with my miss she was gutless. Switched two wires, and she was all-powerful again.


-justin

New info. She died on the road about an hour ago. Wont start. Being towed home. It may be sooner than later that I put plugs and wires in.

I always use AC Delco Spark stuff. Pretty sure they're 8mm.

Good deal man. You should really pick up a delco ignition though.. the Magnavox is real trouble. And I think I read here, that you pick up junkyard units quite often? Pick up a Delco, you'll really like it.

When the car died, did the tach move when you cranked the engine?


-justin

Dunno it died on my wife, I work 40 miles away and had to take the Blazer.

We had it towed to the house for $65, and she just tried to start it and now it started.

It died while going up a small incline, and wouldn't restart (until it got home)

Wow, that really sucks. That is definitely electrical.. because of it being intermittent. If it happens again, try to pay attention to the tach when cranking. Make sure it is moving. If it isn't, you won't be going anywhere.


-justin

Why? Because it comes from the Ign module? Cause it'* not getting to the ECM?

For the most part. The tach reads from the ICM. If the ICM doesn't have all the necessary sensors working and whatnot, it can't give the tach a signal, thus it does not move when cranking. Also, the ECU reads from the tach signal, so if it doesn't have a tach signal, it won't know when to fire the injectors. So you aren't flooding the engine when doing that, either. And if it doesn't move right away, it won't magically start. So cranking for ~5sec is worthless if the tach doesn't move. Just a little diagnosis feature.. and a great one at that --if you have a tach.


-justin

Doesnt sound like its the same but when my6 91 Regal w/L27 got that low power and shudder it was because my fuel lines were all pluged up, actually pluged up my injectors. Id remove pressure regulator and see if it full of stuff inside the housing.

Check fuel pressure

I admit your problem sounds like it might be more electrical but you said coil pack did not help.