Hello all,

I have 4.58 V at the TPS. When I pull the throttle open as far as I can, it goes to 2.15 V. If I disconnect the sensor, I have about 4.8 to 4.95 volts across the connector. I started the car, the problem was still there, although it didn't stall. Turned it off, restarted, it ran again, although this time it searched and nearly stalled once, but all in all, it ran better than most times. Should I be trying to read the voltage while running?

I ordered a repair manual as it takes me a long time to find these pieces. I had a picture of the sensor from a parts site (Rockauto) which seems to have pretty reasonable prices, but it still took a while for me to pick out the sensor.

I also could swear the first time I started it I could smell fuel. I don't see any leaks (old dirty/wet engine, it is hard to tell). And I didn't see or smell anything the second time I started it.

Thanks for your time.

As long as you have the meter try checking the coils. http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...e=article&k=33 Post the readings when you're done.

Hello all,

I have the coil pack readings. Primary windings within error of my meter 0.8 ohm. Secondary windings are 6.01, 5.90, and 6.10. Unfortunately now my plug wires won't stay anchored on the connectors. I knew they would probably need replacing but now it is a necessity. I think I'll try squeezing them a little with pliers in hopes they will grab when I put them back on. There was black greasy substance in the connection. Is this the dielectric grease that was mentioned? Is this to prevent corrsion?

As always, thanks for your time.

Readings sound good. All the dielectric grease I've seen is very light colored. I'd clean all that off. If you're thinking of changing the wires then now would be a good time for that & plugs. The PCV valve on my 89 is under the wires going to the rear if that'* where yours is then change it while the wires are off. The rubber grommets at each end of the PCV valve can dry out & give you a major vacuum leak. Mine where so hard they broke apart when removing. A big leak here can cause rough idle & stalling.

PS - Most everyone here recommends AC Delco or Belden Blue wires. Also Delco or NGK plugs.

Hi all,

Well, after all my fussing with it, it started and ran as good as ever. Drove it to work (3 or 4 miles). When I tried to go home, she barely started, ran rough, and stalled. Then the familiar failure to restart that I had when the MAF sensor went before. Now I have code 34 so I don't know if it was the MAF sensor all along or not. I'll order one and replace it and see what happens.

thanks for all the help.

Hello all,

So wishful thinking that the MAF sensor would be the end of my trouble. I just put the new sensor in. The car started right up, but now the service engine soon light flashes 2 or 3 times per second. Now that has to be some kind of short right? I would also appreciate any other suggestions of what parts to check in case there is an underlying problem that leads to the MAF sensor crapping out every 4 to 6 months. Thanks as always for your time.

FWIW, I had a similiar problem, and it did turn out to be the ECM. I actually was able to isolate it by removing it from the car, put it in the freezer for an hour or so. reinstalled it, it would not run at ALL, it would start and die. SES light flashing wildly

Then I left it in the hot sun (summer) for about 30 mins or so. letting it get good and hot. It would never act up when it was hot.

One used ECM later I was in business. I hope you get it fixed soon