Question about lower control arm....
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From: Berkeley, IL
Question about lower control arm....
since the lower control arms are in every year i dont know if i should just post this in here or the 87-91 forum...
im working on replacing the lower control arm in my bonne and i got the bolt off on the left side (the pass side control arm is what im talking about) and i cant get the bolt off on the right side, the nut on the end of it came off but its like its frozen on there and i cant get the arm off with it on, ive tried everything, penetrating oil, brute force, i even called in the big muscle and still couldnt get it off, anyone got any suggestions???
im working on replacing the lower control arm in my bonne and i got the bolt off on the left side (the pass side control arm is what im talking about) and i cant get the bolt off on the right side, the nut on the end of it came off but its like its frozen on there and i cant get the arm off with it on, ive tried everything, penetrating oil, brute force, i even called in the big muscle and still couldnt get it off, anyone got any suggestions???
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From: El Torito, CA
No direct ideas because I have not had the pleasure - yet.
Years ago... okay, decades ago, I changed a lower control arm on a car that had the bolt rusted into the bushing sleeve. I had to use a propane torch to melt the rubber bushing before I could get the bolt out. Then had to hammer out the outer sleeve.
Years ago... okay, decades ago, I changed a lower control arm on a car that had the bolt rusted into the bushing sleeve. I had to use a propane torch to melt the rubber bushing before I could get the bolt out. Then had to hammer out the outer sleeve.
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From: Western MA
Are you just trying to pound it out? I've found that if the bolt doesn't turn, it can not be pounded out.
I ran into a similar problem with the rear control arm from the 97 I parted out. The bolt would only turn slightly as if it was fused to the inner sleve and would only turn as much as the rubber bushing would allow. A few good whacks on the breaker bar (both ways) eventually did the trick.
I ran into a similar problem with the rear control arm from the 97 I parted out. The bolt would only turn slightly as if it was fused to the inner sleve and would only turn as much as the rubber bushing would allow. A few good whacks on the breaker bar (both ways) eventually did the trick.
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Certified GM nut
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From: CT
bolts
Had the same problem with the front strut to knuckle bolts. They would not budge and I gave up. Junk yard told me they just put the impact gun on the bolt and spin the whole thing.
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Enfield, CT
Get that bolt turning...then if you put the nut back on to protect the threads...and wail on it.
When that doesn't work ...if an impact hammer (air chisel) is available .. nail it with that. Randy had good luck on the strut bolts with it.
When that doesn't work ...if an impact hammer (air chisel) is available .. nail it with that. Randy had good luck on the strut bolts with it.
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From: Berkeley, IL
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Get that bolt turning...then if you put the nut back on to protect the threads...and wail on it.
When that doesn't work ...if an impact hammer (air chisel) is available .. nail it with that. Randy had good luck on the strut bolts with it.
When that doesn't work ...if an impact hammer (air chisel) is available .. nail it with that. Randy had good luck on the strut bolts with it.
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From: cincinnati
when all else fails ~~~ bring out the sawsall with a 5 pack of milwaukee "THE TORCH" bi-metal short blades (available at lowes) and cut the bolt, which is frozen to the inner sleeve of the bushing
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From: Enfield, CT
Or pull out your monster angle grinder and grind it off.
I've done it w/truck leaf spring bolts.. , a sub frame bolt on Frankie and fuel tank bolts on the Mortehlmobile
I've done it w/truck leaf spring bolts.. , a sub frame bolt on Frankie and fuel tank bolts on the Mortehlmobile
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