Rear Lower Control Arm - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1992-1999 Series I L27 (1992-1994 SE,SLE, SSE) & Series II L36 (1995-1999 SE, SSE, SLE) and common problems for the Series I and II L67 (all supercharged models 92-99) Including Olds 88's, Olds LSS's and Buick Lesabres Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 10-26-2007, 02:28 AM   #1
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Default Rear Lower Control Arm

How hard is it to replace the rear lower control arm on a 93 SE? Its bent so bad on the rear driver side that the tire is turned in, I don't know a whole lot about fixing stuff like that but if its simply replacing bolts I can handle it.......Also I just got a engine dropped in and the machanic said that I need to take apart the dash to fix the oil (Stays all the way up) and temp (Stays all the way down) gauges, I seen a few threads about the same problem, did anybody ever resolve the issue?
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:56 AM   #2
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well... the hardest part is getting the two Big Bolts out of the control arm that holds it to the car. other then that its not to bad.

You may have to use a torch to get the bolts out.

Now on the new control arm, if it doesn't have the ball joint in it you most likely will have someone press it in for you, they are a PITA to get in and out on the press in ones.

if you have the right tools you may be able to do it your self though.
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:18 PM   #3
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Exactly right. Dont even attemp it unless you have the right tools (you will need an Oxy/Act torch). The last one I did I charged about $250. That was to take the control arm out and replace the bushings. The bolts are a PINA to get out. They are usually rusted right in there
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Old 10-26-2007, 08:27 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDude
(you will need an Oxy/Act torch).
no, im not talking about Cutting it out

sometimes you have to heat up bolts and the area around them to get he bolt out. i was talking about using MAP gass torch
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