Ok, so i still have the idling problem

I cleaned out the IAC and the throttle body with some throttle body/carb cleaner and i cleaned that out. After doing that the car fired up right away...i assumed it was cause of the cleaner since it is so combustible but thats ok. So after driving it some i stopped.

When i was getting ready to leave a friends house i let it sit and run for a little bit to the point where it stalled after about 5 minutes of idling. After it stalled i tried to turn it back on but it just kept cranking. The tach said it was cranking at a lil less than 500rpms...i guess 300 if i had to give a number, but if i held the key it would just crank and crank, but if i hit the gas it would come to life as long as i kept my foot on the gas.

So today i checked the vaccum hoses...i went to advanced and such and they didnt have hard emissions hoses so i just found a elbow joint grommet on the firewall side of the vaccum distro block that had a hole in it. So i got a new elbow joint and replaced it

After replacing that, i started the car...it went up to 1500rpms, then later down to 1000rpms...then dropped to 700-800rpms....lowest ive ever seen it and my friend said thats where it should be idling...but it rattle the exhaust pipe pretty bad going that low untill it got to around....maybe 900rpms.

So my question is...is the lack of idle...could that be contributed to the coil pack? or icm? because i did change the oxygen sensor, so it should be fine the way its running now...lean or rich wise i mean....its just i cant solve the problem worth a crap and its getting to be frustrating.

if i do need new vaccum lines...can i just go to the dealer to get them or is the car to old for them to still have the lines in stock? I would appreciate as much help as possible.


PS...i DID NOT play with the idle adjustment screw cause i was reading around that doing so should be a last resort....so if anyone has anymore ideas id appreciate it....id perfer the low budget kind though...thanks

Also, i havent had it scanned because i dont have a scan tool...and the only other way i can do so is paying 80 bucks for a scan...rather not....and i still do have the camshaft problem that was supposed to be fixed but the light wont go off even though i still unplug the car.


Dave

Well if you're still having the came problem, I'm pretty sure that'* what would be causing it. I have the same problem with my idle.......And I'm chasing it around myself right now. But i don't have any cam problems. But I think that your cam shaft would be a good plce to start, get that out of the way.

Well if you can't scan, then about the only way to go is to start swapping parts. I would start with the IAC (may be clean but not working). This is where a scan tool is invaluable because as the rpm goes down the IAC command should be ramping up. If over 60 at idle (normally around 40 warmed up) I would definately go for one but if the command is low even though it is stalling, the ECM could be bad.

Without, I suggest you swap IACs first.

OTC 2000s are periodically on e-Bay for $20-$40, you just need to be sure it has a GM cartrige good for your year and the GM cable.