On my '87, i'm getting a problem with the power locks. I know it'* a frequent problem in these cars, but i can't really find a solution. All the lock solenoids are working, but it'* almost like they don't have enough power to move the door locks themselves. None of the locks are seized either, because they all move freely by hand. Now what i've found that works is that if i repeatedly push the lock button, like 15 times in quick sucession, the doors will EVENTUALLY lock/unlock. Is there something to do besides replace the door lock solenoids? If that'* the case i won't, but if all i have to do is pull the door panels and lube i can do that. One door i did lube a while back when i had it apart and it didn't seem to help though so i thought i'd ask. Thanks guys.

I have that problem too.. but mine only occurs when the battery is low. If you do it while the car is running, does it go any faster? If it does, then you have a current delivery issue. With the way the locks are designed lubing helps.. but if it is happening on ALL the doors, I doubt that will fix it. But, my money is on lack of current to the soleniods.


-justin

Hmm... good idea justin i havn't tried that. Well if it IS lack of current what can i do to fix it?

Man justin u are good! I went out and tried running the car while using the locks. IT WORKED! So you think that it'* probably my battery that just needs to be replaced because the voltage isn't high enough w/o the alternator charging it? I know it barely passes a load test, but it still cranks the car over fine and runs everything and holds a charge, so i'll probably wait until it dies totally.

i have that exact same problem too, except the running of the car didnt matter. prolly just dirty.

Naw man, your battery is probably fine. The thing that I am thinking is limiting the current is just the age of the wiring and connections. Honestly, tracking that down would be VERY hard.. I don't know how you could track that down.. if you are brave, you could test the resistance from start to finish in several strands.. but my guess is it would be the WHOLE system, and you would have to replace each strand of wire, and each and every connector. Honestly, I say it isn't worth it, and just lube up all the locks.. on every single thing you can find that moves. I think it really depends on how much you want the locks to work their best.


-justin

I have the same problem. It'* usually the front passenger door that won't unlock with the power locks when the car is off. Sure enough if I start it and press the power lock button it works. Also, when the car is off and I press the powerlock button the courtesy lights will dim for a split second. I know my battery is good as well, since it'* less then 6 months old.

Low battery, lights only dim when battery is low.


-justin

Everything u guys describe with the key off is what i get. The dimming lights and all. But i think the work good enough for now, basically i don't plan on ever locking this thing anyways. For one the keyhole on the drivers door doesn't work, and second it'* a 20 year old car with nothing of value ever left in it except my 5 year old pioneer cd player. Thanks for all the help though guys!

Well, if it'* a low battery then the problem for me is definatly the alternator. My headlights will go dim for a second when I press the brake pedal down and the brake lights go on. The voltmeter guage also goes down very slightly for a split second. It has done this ever since I got the car (and a brand new battery), and it hasn't worsened...so I'm not too worried for now.