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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 11-16-2006, 11:16 PM   #1
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Default New member with some Q'*.

Hello, Brand new poster here but I've been lurking for about a week now since I purchased my 90 Bonnie Le. I bought it as a backup vehicle for when I need it. Although It had a SES light on and needs a few other minor things, But I was well prepared to do some work. So when I got the car home I checked the codes and guess what code 41. So I got online and did a search and landed here and read about the problems with the interrupter so off I go for parts. I decided to go the long route and replace the timing chain, tensioner, Interrupter, and a new gasket set with a new front seal. Took me about 4 1/2 hours to do the work and the thing runs smooth as silk now.

Now of to my other problems. My pass side door will not open from the inside or out and I need recommendations on how to get it open to fix it and what I will probably need to pick up from the scrap yard.

My drivers side window will not roll down I suspect something is rounded off hopefully it'* the handle but I haven't checked yet but will try tomorrow.

My heater switch only works on high, Bad switch maybe?

I know it probably sound'* like junk, But it'* not really that bad.

Thanks guys for any and all responses, Look forward to hearing from you.
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Old 11-17-2006, 10:22 AM   #2
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Well, first Clayton, I'll say:

Welcome to BC!

Glad you were able to fix the code 41.

As to the pass, door opeining, I recommend you remove the door panel to see what'* causing it to stick.

There are a few more here who are more familiar with the '90 series and can probably help you better.
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Old 11-18-2006, 12:42 AM   #3
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Thanks for the welcome . Does anyone know if the panel will come off with the door shut? I am fairly skilled at wrenching, But when it comes to stuff like this I just don't have the patience. I would rather go get both front doors and put them on just to save my sanity.

But I took it out and drove it a little while today, And it runs very well. Good response, Plenty of power, Decent handling. Even got a little patch of rubber by accident .

I also plan on ditching those magnavox coils. They seem to do just fine by me, But others have reported better fuel economy, Easier cold starts, And better throttle response, So I will just have to try and see for myself. I know it wont hurt anything and if I don't notice a difference I will have a extra set just in case.
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Old 11-18-2006, 02:43 AM   #4
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I had an '89 that had a similar problem but it was the driver'* door that would not open. It had to do with the lock mechanism. Sometimes, it could become stuck between locked and unlocked. I rolled the window down, and would shine a flashlight down inside then follow the rod for the interior handle to the lock. Checking where that, the locking mechanjsm and the external button all came together is where the arm was that stuck. Getting a narrow rod in and pushing on it freed it up for a while. It was always just temporary, though. That was a while ago, so I'm sorry that I can't give you any more detail than that. I never tried to get the door panel off with it closed, however.

Are the windows electric or manual? Check the relays for the blower. I think there may be 2 for your car. One for high speed, and the other for the lower ones.

Welcome to our group.
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Old 11-18-2006, 10:41 PM   #5
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Well I got the door open, Turns out the outside button was stuck (or whats in behind it). I just tapped on the handle lightly with a hammer an pushed the button and it opened. It also opens from the inside too .

I also pulled my drives side panel to check the window and it appears that the mechanism that the window crank attaches to is broken, So I'm gonna replace that as soon as I get time.
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Old 11-18-2006, 11:37 PM   #6
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Good work!
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Old 11-19-2006, 12:45 AM   #7
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Default Re: New member with some Q'*.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton
My heater switch only works on high, Bad switch maybe?
The switch could be bad but I'd suspect the blower resistor module first. There are 3 resistors in this module which control LO, M1 & M2 speeds. HI speed triggers a relay and supplies the blower motor with full battery voltage via a fusible link. The blower resistor module is located in the blower housing on the firewall under the hood. You'll need to remove the plastic trim that runs along the back of the engine compartment. The one that kinda covers the AC dryer.

You can test before and after the resistor module with a test light. There should be a brown or brown with white jumper that goes from the AC control head to the blower switch. Verify that this wire is hot in any mode (MAX, NORM, BI-LEVEL, etc) other than OFF. Then test the dark blue wire at the resistor module. With the problem you're having, this wire should show no voltage at all. If so, the resistor module is at fault.
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Old 11-19-2006, 01:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
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Good work!
Thanks.
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Old 11-19-2006, 01:05 AM   #9
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Default Re: New member with some Q'*.

Quote:
Originally Posted by randman1
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clayton
My heater switch only works on high, Bad switch maybe?
The switch could be bad but I'd suspect the blower resistor module first. There are 3 resistors in this module which control LO, M1 & M2 speeds. HI speed triggers a relay and supplies the blower motor with full battery voltage via a fusible link. The blower resistor module is located in the blower housing on the firewall under the hood. You'll need to remove the plastic trim that runs along the back of the engine compartment. The one that kinda covers the AC dryer.

You can test before and after the resistor module with a test light. There should be a brown or brown with white jumper that goes from the AC control head to the blower switch. Verify that this wire is hot in any mode (MAX, NORM, BI-LEVEL, etc) other than OFF. Then test the dark blue wire at the resistor module. With the problem you're having, this wire should show no voltage at all. If so, the resistor module is at fault.
Thanks, I'll check that out tomorrow and post my findings.
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