my 87 lives on + control arm question - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 01-22-2007, 12:53 AM   #1
Executed
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
MikeDiaz is on a distinguished road
Default my 87 lives on + control arm question

Hey guys. A while back (early past summer) I was on here touting the untimely retirement of my beloved 87.

Long story short I kept it under a car cover outside and I need to get it going again by May if I want to keep it.

What I need to accomplish this:
Well - I replaced the front ball joints on it and in removing the factory-riveted originals, I over drilled the ball joint holes on the control arms.

My question is one of two:
1) Can I just fill in the overdrilled holes with a welder? Is this safe/ Has anyone tried this?
2) If not - anyone have a set of front control arms they can sell me?

Thanks to all and lets get the 87 moving again soon!

Mike Diaz
MikeDiaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 01:00 AM   #2
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Bloomington, MN
Posts: 3,693
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
GoldenBullet is on a distinguished road
Default

i would say that welding wouldnt be the safest option since i dont think it would be strong enough to hold it
GoldenBullet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 01:31 AM   #3
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
wjcollier07 is on a distinguished road
Default

i would just say run down to a yard and grab some. its not worth it getting them from a member because they are so heavy and shipping would be outrageous.
wjcollier07 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 02:21 AM   #4
Senior Member
Posts like a Northstar
 
bastard's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 694
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
bastard is on a distinguished road
Default salvage yard would be cheapest.

Check with a parts store in your area. The O'Reilly chain handles used parts. Tell them what you want and they go get it from a salvage yard. There should be a store in your area that will do that for you, if you don't have an O'Reilly nearby. But it would probably be cheaper to go to a salvage yard yourself and get them.
As far as shipping goes, they don't weigh as much as you'd think.
Concerning welding, I used to work with a Navy Hull Technician that could weld any kind of metal. I'm sure he could have repaired your old ones or he could have fabricated a new set of control arms that would be much lighter and stronger than the stockers. But the cost would be prohibitive for someone that good. If your welding skills are good enough, I'd say go for it. If not, be prepared for plan B.
bastard is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 08:30 AM   #5
DINOSAURUS BOOSTUS

Expert Gearhead
 
BillBoost37's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Enfield, CT
Posts: 41,391
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
BillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of lightBillBoost37 is a glorious beacon of light
Default

Mike..if you don't have success and can verify 87-90 were the same, I may be able to pick one up at a yard nearby if the weather holds out.
BillBoost37 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 01:52 PM   #6
BANNED
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
banned3800 is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBoost37
Mike..if you don't have success and can verify 87-90 were the same, I may be able to pick one up at a yard nearby if the weather holds out.
87-90 is the same... But 91 uses a diffrent Control arm

__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote
banned3800 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 02:39 PM   #7
Senior Member
Posts like a Corvette
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Berkeley, IL
Posts: 1,596
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
DarkShadow is on a distinguished road
Default

id like to point out, the lower control arms on this gen bonne are insanely hard to get off after all these years, i tried everything and couldnt get mine off and ended up replacing the whole subframe.

it might be more cost effective to have it put on a frame machine at a body shop and see if they can bend it back.
DarkShadow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 03:01 PM   #8
Senior Member
Certified GM nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 2,099
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
SSEBONNE4EVA is on a distinguished road
Default sub

thats an option, go to the yard and take the whole subframe and control arms.
SSEBONNE4EVA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-22-2007, 11:13 PM   #9
Executed
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Purgatory
Posts: 0
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
MikeDiaz is on a distinguished road
Default

hmm well if it came down to a subframe issue I think I'd be out of luck :(
My goal is to cheaply - albeit safely - get the '87 on its feet again. While I can't say I know that the sub frame would be expensive I do believe it'd be expensive since I've never done a suspension job that big so I'd probably have to get it done and that would be a $$$ job.

I guess I should try and remove my control arms as a first step. If I can get them off then I should go from there. If I can't remove them... well let'* just hope I can remove them.

Any tips on removing control arms?

Thanks to all you guys

Mike
MikeDiaz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-23-2007, 12:10 PM   #10
Senior Member
True Car Nut
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Ames, Iowa
Posts: 3,066
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
bill buttermore is on a distinguished road
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeDiaz
hmm well if it came down to a subframe issue I think I'd be out of luck :(
My goal is to cheaply - albeit safely - get the '87 on its feet again. While I can't say I know that the sub frame would be expensive I do believe it'd be expensive since I've never done a suspension job that big so I'd probably have to get it done and that would be a $$$ job.

I guess I should try and remove my control arms as a first step. If I can get them off then I should go from there. If I can't remove them... well let'* just hope I can remove them.

Any tips on removing control arms?
The bolts and nuts are really tight to start with and then they get pretty rusty. Put the front up on jackstands and remove the wheels and anything else that gets in the way. Since your new ones are bolt-ins, you can remove the ball joints from the arms by unbolting them. If the sway bar end links are rusted, chisel open the sleeve in the center and cut the bolt. You may want to unbolt and push the drive axle through the hub to let you swing the strut and knuckle back out of your way. Unbolt the brake line clamp to give you a little more swing.

Where the control arm bolts to the subframe, take a wire brush to the exposed threads on the bolts and get them as clean as you can. Spray them with Power Blaster penetrating oil, Kroil, or Seafoam Deepcreep, (NOT WD-40, that stuff is useless as a penetrant) then whack the end of the bolt with a 2-lb hammer to encourage the oil to migrate between the nut and bolt. Let them sit for a day, and repeat the oil and banging. On the third day.....if you don't have an impact wrench, get a 1/2" breaker bar and a 4' cheater bar to multiply your torque. Jam a 6-point wrench on one end and engage the other end with a 6-point socket on your breaker bar. If you can, try to turn the nut and hold the bolt head. It will be more likely to come loose that way. The shaft of the bolt often rusts into the sleeve in the rubber bushing. Keep the wrenches aligned nice and straight. You should be able to break the bolts one way or the other if your lever is long enough, your wrenches are strong enough, and you keep everything aligned.

Other options: Acetylene torch, Dremel tool to cut nut longitudinally or bolt axially. Once nut is gone, you can drive out the bolt. You may need to get creative; just be encouraged, there is not a nut and bolt that can withstand repeated attention from a determined mechanic.
bill buttermore is offline   Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Replacing lower control arm on S10, torsion bar question GunsOfNavarone GMC/Chevrolet Truck/SUV 5 12-03-2014 09:46 AM
trailing arm/lateral arm jayd435 2000-2005 8 07-14-2013 12:25 PM
Control Arm question samb1987 2000-2005 1 08-14-2012 10:35 PM
Ball joints, tie rods, pitman arm, and idler arm StealthGXP Lounge 2 01-21-2011 09:42 AM
Question about lower control arm.... DarkShadow 1987-1991 8 11-17-2005 03:21 PM


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:29 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.