Oh yeah, forgot about the GX3, but I don't know my gear ratio.. i'm too lazy to clean out the trunk and look at the RPO codes. However, I know I have enough power to chirp the tires from a dead stop, and have 1400rpm runs at 55. I think that is the perfect combination.


-justin

The a/c heat is only on the lowest setting when i am driving on the interstate. So i dont think its that, and if any of habits have changed its been not **** canning it every time i accelerate b/c of the MPG issue, so its not that. I dont know much about thermostats but i do know that the other day my temp went up to like 220 or so and i slowed down to pull over but then it went down??? WTF!? I have been using injector cleaner every time i change my oil. I am going to change the o2 sensors. I have absolutely no fricken clue what the BLM is, please enlighten me.
Thanks

I made up a better air intake for mine, that helped a lot. Since I made that it gets about 2mpg more than using the stock intake/air cleaner combo.

I just used a cone K&N air cleaner, a 3" wide pvc pipe and a rubber elbow. I had under $40 wrapped up in the whole thing, it pays for itself in no time. Not the prettiest thing, but its very functional! I average 21-23mpg (city/hwy mixed driving) and thats with 241K on the odometer.

u use duct tape on it? has the drop been gradual, or sudden.

you have the 2.97 Gear ratio.

"i do know that the other day my temp went up to like 220 or so and i slowed down to pull over but then it went down??? "

Sounds like a sticking thermostat and may be sticking open as well. If sticks open and coolant temp drops under 146F, the engine will go into open loop operation (poor mpg) Can get heat even at 110F.

I like STANT Superstats - 59848 (not discontinued, U$7.49 at Pep Boyz) : 180F for "C" or "L" 3800 and don't forget a new O-Ring

I'll add that to the list of things. I have to start getting this stuff done before the snow flies. Changing the thermostat is a fairly easy job?

yeah, really easy. its as simple as taking out the engine, pulling off the heads, and dislodging the old thermostat with a suitable explosive. no big deal really though, i think u just remove that thing that the top radiator hose connects to the block with <2 bolts i think> bang it off with a hammer and block of wood, theres your thermostat, pop it out, scrape gasket off <must be all, or u can brake the piece> new gasket and thermostat in, bolt and torque it down, see if it leaks. no leaks, no problem. just be sure to keep an eye on the temp to confirm thermostat function, and also learn new behavior. tada!!!!

thats what i thought i would need to do to get that bad boy off. ill get that done tomorrow, let you guys know how it goes.

rjolly: That is a general description of how to change a tstat. Here is a more detailed explaination, for all to share, and read with their kids in front of the fireplace .

You let the car sit OVERNIGHT, then pull the upper radiator hose, on the block, you will see the tstat housing, it has ONE bolt [strange, yes, PITA, yes, leads to problems later on, yes], it is an 11mm bolt, you will need a box head wrench of that size, or a universal joint of that size. I used a box head with a cheater bar [approx 2ft in length]. To get the housing off.. you need to take the biggest box head wrench you have, wrap around a shop towel or two [more if just reg. paper towels]. and shake that sucker for all you are worth.. pull up, left, right, down, whatever it takes. Mine was a PITA. Once you have that off, you will have two rubber o-rings.. one around the diameter of the housing, and one in between the tstat and housing. You will need to replace the one around the housing.. the other one is fine. But when replacing the one around the housing, you need to get one that is TIGHT around the housing. Mine had about 4mm play around the housing, and of course the housing wouldn't go back on like that. Once you have that all squared away, put the tstat on the block [NOT on the housing like you probably pulled it from when removing]. Take a small hammer and long flat screwdriver, and make sure the housing is fully secured on the intake, and there isn't ANY space left. Once that is done, bolt it up, put on upper radiator hose, and IMO flush the cooling system.

Was that long enough for you? Hope so, because that is what it takes.


-justin