"I'm not sure I'd be comfortable trying to JB the interrupter in. The LN3 has all new timing parts, including the interrupter, I think I'd rather get that stuff in the engine than take a shortcut at this point."

OK just an option. BTW I fixed my 88 that way three years ago and is still fine. As long as you get everything really clean it should work fine (and if it comes off again, you are out a half hour and $14 & are no worse off than before).

Well, if this damper gives me any more trouble, I may have to resort to that, anyway. The '90 LN3 damper just slides off after the bolt is removed, this one won't budge and there aren't any threaded holes for a puller like I'm used to on Chevy engines.

I recall that the '91 Bonneville damper gave me some trouble coming off. I had to modify a pulley puller to get it to latch onto the damper, but none of my pullers seem to grab onto anything on this L27.

Never mind. I see the threaded holes through the outer slots now. The '90 doesn't have the slots, even. Guess I didn't look hard enough when I did the '91.

The L27 has a single center bolt for the cam sprocket, the LN3 has 3 and a spring-loaded cam button that runs against the front cover.

One of the plastic interrupter tangs broke off when I removed it from the cam gear, so I ended up using the JB Weld anyway.

Now back out to scrape off old gasket and try to get this thing together again.

you might as well just buy a new one if you are in it that far. $10 + not having to worry about it versus JB Weld + Youre having to tear it apart it again <maybe>.

I considered that. Reasons I went ahead and did the JB:
- I already had it, no more $'* involved, nor another trip to the parts store.
- This interrupter was a couple of months old - if it broke a tang, the next new one would, too.
- With the rest of it intact, it'* still a lot better than the method above I was encouraged to do without removing the front cover.

Several cars are running fine here with JB Welded interruptors. None have failed since.

Well, got it back together and started again. It was much smoother, no engine light. Still sounded like it had a slight miss (I didn't do the compression check yet).

I was running some AMSOIL crankcase flush through it, supposed to run for 20-30 minutes before draining (no driving - it'* too thin for loading). After about 15 minutes of running, it started idling smoother and the miss didn't seem to be there. Ran it for 30 minutes, drained the oil, changed the filter, finished putting the little things on, took it out for a drive. At first the miss seemed to still be there, but the 2nd or 3rd acceleration (I was taking it easy), it seemed to smooth out. The power isn't astounding, but I haven't really gotten on it. It does seem slightly peppier off the line, but again not in an amazing fashion.

Took it on the highway, the cruise isn't working for some reason. When I got back home, it still seems to idle a little rough, but that goes away with some throttle.

I don't know if something is cleaning up, or if the computer is figuring out how to run this engine - not sure how much learning this computer is capable of. I'm running some radiator flush through it for a couple of days, we'll see how it'* doing when I need to dump that out. Right now the wife is taking it to the library. She didn't take her cell phone, hope that isn't a problem (she didn't have it when the cam broke in the LN3).

That'* just the ECU relearning. My guess, 50 miles and it should be back to normal.

Awesome job on the swap. hope she stays with you for a long time .