intermittant SES, Fixed
#11
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well my battery sides of the positive cables were discusting, all blue and corroded to the max, im surprised the car even ran.
Got all new positive cables on the car and it seems to be running great. Between the cables and the tb, iac, egr cleaning I think I got my problems, but since this code was intermittant I am not 100 percent positive. i'll just say that this car has never pulled as strong as it just did after I put new cables on.
I will keep up on this thread, if I throw a code here within the next couple days you guys will know about it.
thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate the guidance on trying to get this thing figured out, I mostly mess with import 4 cyl turbo applications, but I guess Im gonna have to get more familiar with my daily driver.
kyle
Got all new positive cables on the car and it seems to be running great. Between the cables and the tb, iac, egr cleaning I think I got my problems, but since this code was intermittant I am not 100 percent positive. i'll just say that this car has never pulled as strong as it just did after I put new cables on.
I will keep up on this thread, if I throw a code here within the next couple days you guys will know about it.
thanks again for all the help, I really appreciate the guidance on trying to get this thing figured out, I mostly mess with import 4 cyl turbo applications, but I guess Im gonna have to get more familiar with my daily driver.
kyle
#12
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Alright, the car drove fine for a day or so. I started to get a miss here and there, If it missed a couple times in a row, SES would stay and speedo would go crazy or not work. If it happened at idle, car would stall.
So I checked under the hood, and NEG battery cable was loose, connector was stripped, I guess I overtightened it. So I pulled NEG cable, and coils. Cleaned all ground connections at NEG cable, the two grounds going to the block(VIA Mounting bracket from coil0, the 1 ground in FR engine compartment coming from Neg cable. After this, car runs a tiny bit better, being that it will only miss, Code will not stay on. but it will still stall if it misses at idle.
So far this is everything I have done chasing down this problem
-New plugs
-New wires
-Cleaned TB,IAC,EGR
-Replaced vacuum lines
-Made gasket for Bottom of Vacuum hub on top of intake plenum
-New Battery
-New Positive Battery cables, cleaned connections
-Checked resistance of NeG cable, checks out good, shiny clean and tight connections
-All ground connections that I described above are shiny clean and tight.
Only thing I can think of is maybe a bad IAC because the idle is not rock solid all the time, but sometimes it is, or a short somewhere, or bad ground somewhere.
Anyone got any ideas?
thanks
So I checked under the hood, and NEG battery cable was loose, connector was stripped, I guess I overtightened it. So I pulled NEG cable, and coils. Cleaned all ground connections at NEG cable, the two grounds going to the block(VIA Mounting bracket from coil0, the 1 ground in FR engine compartment coming from Neg cable. After this, car runs a tiny bit better, being that it will only miss, Code will not stay on. but it will still stall if it misses at idle.
So far this is everything I have done chasing down this problem
-New plugs
-New wires
-Cleaned TB,IAC,EGR
-Replaced vacuum lines
-Made gasket for Bottom of Vacuum hub on top of intake plenum
-New Battery
-New Positive Battery cables, cleaned connections
-Checked resistance of NeG cable, checks out good, shiny clean and tight connections
-All ground connections that I described above are shiny clean and tight.
Only thing I can think of is maybe a bad IAC because the idle is not rock solid all the time, but sometimes it is, or a short somewhere, or bad ground somewhere.
Anyone got any ideas?
thanks
#13
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I seriously doubt the IAC based on your symptoms.
Running pig rich with a high rpm and a stumbling idle leads me to ask how old your O2 sensor is and what brand it is.
My second question is have you unplugged your MAF sensor and tried to drive it?
Running pig rich with a high rpm and a stumbling idle leads me to ask how old your O2 sensor is and what brand it is.
My second question is have you unplugged your MAF sensor and tried to drive it?
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The light will not stay on, no stored codes either. All I get is number 12 all day.
The O2 is stock. I was going to pick a new one up also forgot to mention that. How do these cars act with a bad O2? Im pretty sure the car isn't running rich, Only when the SES light was staying on was my car running rich. Now it seems to run great except for the miss.
I have not tried to unplug the MAF and drive but I will, what should it do if the MAf is good and also if it is bad, what should I look for?
The O2 is stock. I was going to pick a new one up also forgot to mention that. How do these cars act with a bad O2? Im pretty sure the car isn't running rich, Only when the SES light was staying on was my car running rich. Now it seems to run great except for the miss.
I have not tried to unplug the MAF and drive but I will, what should it do if the MAf is good and also if it is bad, what should I look for?
#16
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Generally, if your MAF is bad, the car will run better without it plugged in. If that'* the case, you could try cleaning the little element inside it, or (probably) get another one.
It makes me wonder though, since you had it running good for a day or so when you replaced the cables, what went wrong since then? Well, I suppose that could point toward a MAF, or O2 sensor, if the disconnected battery reset your ECM, and now it'* relearned it'* fuel calibration with bad info... Sorry, just thinking aloud. I'd unplug the MAF like the man said, report back with results.
It makes me wonder though, since you had it running good for a day or so when you replaced the cables, what went wrong since then? Well, I suppose that could point toward a MAF, or O2 sensor, if the disconnected battery reset your ECM, and now it'* relearned it'* fuel calibration with bad info... Sorry, just thinking aloud. I'd unplug the MAF like the man said, report back with results.
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Well I unplugged MAF this morning, and started car, started fine about 2 houses down the street SES came on and stayed on, speedo still works, and engine runs just like it does when theres no light. Does not run sluggish or anything.
any way to test the maf electronically to see what part is bad?
any way to test the maf electronically to see what part is bad?
#18
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Can you please pull codes to see WHY the light came on this morning before we start guessing again?
If your O2 is over 50-60k miles old, replace it with an AC Delco sensor.
If your O2 is over 50-60k miles old, replace it with an AC Delco sensor.
#19
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Ok, just went out and pulled codes. No light was on at this time, car seemed to run ok. Pulled codes, looked em up in the book
16-System voltage out of range
21-TPS voltage high
23-IAT sensor circuit
34-MAP or MAF sensor low
43-Low voltages at ECM, or knock sensor circuit
Now all these codes were stored, this was after I had unplugged, and ran without the MAF. Car was off for about 5 minutes. I plugged MAF back in, went for a spin, no codes, came home, shut the car off and pulled codes.
16-System voltage out of range
21-TPS voltage high
23-IAT sensor circuit
34-MAP or MAF sensor low
43-Low voltages at ECM, or knock sensor circuit
Now all these codes were stored, this was after I had unplugged, and ran without the MAF. Car was off for about 5 minutes. I plugged MAF back in, went for a spin, no codes, came home, shut the car off and pulled codes.
#20
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That many codes makes me thing the Puter is sending the smoke signals..
Do you know anyne that has an Older Lesabre, Olds 88 or Bonneville with the Vin C engine that you could borrow a Puter from?
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Do you know anyne that has an Older Lesabre, Olds 88 or Bonneville with the Vin C engine that you could borrow a Puter from?
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