It makes perfect sense. I too considered the "pull" type spring (I think you call it tention) when I was looking for a solution. I decided to go with the other type to duplicate the original.

It would have been nice to disassemble the entire latch, replace some springs, bushings and whatnot and reassemble. You can't find those rivet thingies at the hardware store and I assume that a special machine is needed to fasten them.

Looks like a mondo spring is the answer.

And the spring you bought is likely twice as stiff as the original, which is probably all that'* needed.

It'* off to the hardware store in the morning! I'll let ya know how it goes.

Peace,

Mike D.

Well, it works!

I went to the hardware store and bought a small package of compression springs that are 1 3/4" long by 3/8 diameter and made of .035" wire.

The original spring is on a pin that'* swaged at the bottom end to part of the linkage. At the top end it goes through a hole in another piece, so the spring is partially compressed and captive between the two parts.

I was able to bend the top part up enough with a pair of pliers to release the end of the pin and the spring. I simply slipped the new larger spring down over the existing spring, then compressed them both and bent the part back down. Looks just like it should have come from the factory!

Put the latch back in the door and hooked it up and the augmented spring easily returns the linkage when the lock is activated. Problem solved, at least until the linkage gets even stickier...

The door'* back together now, little worse for the wear. Works fine.

Being very familiar with the way it works now, I tried pounding on the rearward portion of the driver'* side rear door to see if I could get the linkage to drop with the weak spring and it did! So, I at least know what'* going on now, and I'll probably take it apart and do the same fix, since I'd rather not have to do it again any time soon.

Randman, thanks for all the help! Your guidance got me going again a couple of times, for sure.

Be well,

Mike D.

I'm glad you got it fixed. It must have been quite a trick to bend the pin that the spring slides over without breaking it. It sounds like yours were in a little better condition then mine. Did you use a galvanized spring? I couldn't find one at the hardware store but wish I would have.

would painting the spring affect it in any way? Because I think I am going to fix my door asap, since the door panel laying in my trunk, isn't exactly the most ideal thing in the world . And I don't want it to rust.. and for any little gremlines that live in my door, to think my latch, and pretty coloured spring, are very good looking .


-justin

That'* a good question. I'm not a paint guy but I imagine that paint on a spring that small would have a limited lifespan. It would probably flake off in a short time.

I didn't bend the pin, but rather the piece of metal that the top end of the pin slides inside of. That'* made of the same stamped metal the whole thing is built from. It'* malleable enough to bend gently a couple of times without breaking. The next time it needs fixing, I hope the car belongs to somebody else!!

I just used a plain old steel spring. I've got a lot of grease all over everything, though, so that should help it survive a little while anyway.

Mike D.

grease, yes, that will work perfectly! great idea!


-justin

I just wanted to post an update about my solution for the sticking door latches in this vintage of Bonneville.

I just fixed the passenger side front door by adding an extra compression spring on top of the original. Once you get the door apart and the latch out the modification takes about 2 minutes to do. Bend the tab on the lever that the top end of the pin slides in, slip the spring over, hold them both down while you line the pin back up with the hole and bend the tab back down.

This was the last one that needed doing. All of the other three doors are holding up perfectly, the oldest one for more than two years now.

Be well,

Mike D.