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HEY HEY HEY....look at what I found....SHOULD I BUY IT???

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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 11:40 AM
  #11  
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L67 Swap
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 12:31 PM
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L67 Swap? **** that. Grand National Heads swap is more like it. LG3=3.8L Turbo comptable.


-justin
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 12:58 PM
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Manifolds for the turbos would still be a problem though with the GN --> LG3 swap :(
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 03:26 PM
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Well, yeah, RWD and FWD aren't the most compatable, however heads, and intake are.


-justin
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 07:40 PM
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sounds like a pooched engine..
$150 good for the parts, wheel bearings.. CV joint.. tranny..
Etc..
Even wiper blades if they are good
cheap out if u have to
haha
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Old Mar 27, 2005 | 12:38 AM
  #16  
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If those arms holding the hood up are still good I'll give you $15 for them.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 12:39 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by opensourceguy
L67 Swap? f*** that. Grand National Heads swap is more like it. LG3=3.8L Turbo comptable.


-justin
L67 DROP WOULD BE FUN AS HELL. especially on a 87. If I COULD find a tranny that would work I would be all for it but...I do live in a place where L67'* ARE VERY VERY RARE. and I really mean that. The junkyard here as two series 2 versions for $900 each that is WITHOUT THE SUPERCHARGER...ANOTHER $400 THERE. and the cost of a tranny from them (they dont have ANY in the yard right now would be in the $900 range which they would have to order from another state.)

so yeah I gave up for right now BUT MAY BUY IT STILL if he will take a bill for it...I am NOT paying $150 for it though since it is $50 just for tax/registration/title which I need to sell it to the junkyard/next buyer.

If it does not sell in a week I will see if he will take $100 for it.



I am pretty sure I am not able to do a drop in motor since I dont have many tools and It looks like I would mess up the flywheel alignment up or something.




He thinks it is NOT A ROD KNOCK. BUT IT DOES SOUND LIKE MY 454 when it thru a rod lol but that engine only ran 2 minutes after the inital "pop" and then went garble garble bang pop {silence} shortly followed by a scream/groan/depressed facial expression since I had about $4000 in that vehicle....



the oil is really dark dark black and the noise sounds like bearings but it is VERY loud but the motor still starts sorta ok.

Is it drivable partiially?


COULD this be just a bad main bearing by chance?



Also what items can I sell out of it online? anything worth any money on that LG3?
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 01:00 AM
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Woah. Don't buy it as a daily driver. Get a car cover and sit it behind the house, an L67 will find you.
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 04:20 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Damemorder
Woah. Don't buy it as a daily driver. Get a car cover and sit it behind the house, an L67 will find you.




not the plan at all I was refering to: IS IT DRIVABLE in a sense to go 8 miles to get home without towing it?

Assuming I do get it.....Someone would have to convince me that it is NOT THAT HARD to do a LG3 swap and make it work when you are done.... so thus would be a quick resale project since I live on a VERY VERY busy street w/ on street parking, on corner near a main stoplight. Thus a lot of people see the car. Probably could sell it for $250 if I got a new taililight and detailed the living crap out of it....

L67 may get WAY WAY to complicated with electronics and such. let alone it is an LE with a 1mm sway bar in the rear and 2mm in the front...or along those lines.

Not sure if it would be worth spending $450 for a motor plus ~$200 for rented engine lift/extra tools needed to buy. we are talking at bare minimum $650 + $150 = $800....what is an 87 bonnie with a 92,000 mille engine with paint faded and inperfections worth? maybe $1g if I am lucky.

IMPORTANT QUESTION.....

what transmissions were compatable with this car??? what years exactly? just 87 or will 86 work or some 88s work?

How hard is it to do an engine drop in the LG3s in all reality for someone that has NEVER EVER done a drop before? (chilton says it is fairly hard IMO).
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Old Mar 28, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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a) just for *&G, remove the serpentine belt and fire up (10-15 seconds isn't going to hurt if engine is cool). If noise is still there then is deep inside.

Pulling the engine is not hard if you follow the process in the service manual. First pull the hood, then proceed. For me the most difficult part was the three feet of extensions required to remove the one backwards-facing motor-transmission bolt.
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