I use only AC Delco Rapidfiers in all of my cars, for 3800s I use #3s (.045" gap) with Magnavox ignition and #14 (.060") with Delco.

For more than you ever wanted to know, see http://6007.us/3vs14.htm .

hey guys, well thanx for all the info, it'* not the fuel pump, we tested it by pinching the return line, and it shot the pressure up to 55 psi and still nothing. the injectors are firing when they are jumped from the battery manually, so we think that there'* a sensor that'* telling them not to fire when the car tries to start. when we drove it there was a check engine light. and so we're going to check and see if that'* it. do you know of the sensors that would cause it not to fire, i read somewhere that the injectors have to receive an 18x and 3x signal to tell it to fire, and i thought that maybe that'* not workin' right...what do ya think? thanx for the input.

The crank sensor provides the 3x and 18x signals to the ignition module (under the coils). This sends a fuel control signal to the ECM telling it to fire the injectors.

Folks *please* download http://6007.us/cbdnr.pdf and read it.

Does the tachometer (if you have one) wiggle while cranking ?

****, completly forgot about that. if your ignition system is good up to the coils, the tach works. However, because you have an LE, you won't have a tach, so I have no clue how to test it on your car.


-justin

if it were the crank sensor would it be able to work at all, b/c i ran it for a 10 mile and 20 mile trip before it wouldn't start again. i was told it wouldn't run at all if it was the crank sensor. and the pdf file doesn't work, when i click it there'* an error, when i right click and "save target as" adobe doesn't recognize it...so we can't download it, i've tried a few times. could it be the coil back was bad? or not sending a strong enough signal to the plugs?

when my crank sensor started to fail, it was after the car had been running for a while then shut off. give it about 30 minutes it would start right up. otherwise, the car would crank and crank, but not even try to start. one time it died on the highway, and we finally decided to do something about it when it started acting up cold. that was a crappy project only because somebody thought it would be funny to put locktite stuff on the harmonic balancer bolt. broke a socket, fried an electric impact gun, ended up having to get it from the top with a 24 inch breaker bar and an impact socket.my dad worked the breaker barwhile i wedged a tire iron in the flywheel. took 2 days of failed ideas for that fun. try pouring water on the sensor, and make sure it is connected good. reseat it if u have to.

i would love nothing more to download it, but it was decoded incorrectly, or it'* corrupted. if he fixes the problem with it, then we can download it, but until then, it doesn't work.

I just opened it just fine with IE. Of course you have to have the free Adobe Acrobat reader 5.0 or later installed to read/print the .pdf.
Reader: http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/readermain.html
File: http://6007.us/cbdnr.pdf

Just a thought: there is some anti-spyware software that does not seem to like redirects. If you have trouble opening my file above try http://bellsouthpwp.net/p/a/padgett46/cbdnr.pdf . If that works please let me know and I'll find a different way.

PROBLEM SOLVED! so apparently the sensor that tells the injector'* how "open" the throttle is, was screwed up or something, so they were flooding the engine, so that'* fixed now, it starts and runs...WOO HOO!!! thanx for all the help guys

throttle position sensor ? <TPS>