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1987-1991 Parley with regards to your 1987 to 1991 Bonneville, Olds 88 or Buick Le Sabre Please use General Chat for non-mechanical issues, and Performance and Brainstorming for improvements.

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Old 12-06-2005, 11:16 AM   #11
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Got a point there. It depends on where it is rotted.
These cars have no frame and are a unibody constr.
If is just a hole in front of the wheel thats one thing but if the unibody is rotted it should be welded.
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:02 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSEBONNE4EVA
Got a point there. It depends on where it is rotted.
These cars have no frame and are a unibody constr.
If is just a hole in front of the wheel thats one thing but if the unibody is rotted it should be welded.
Plus, the saftey, of you, and your passengers depend on whether that piece is rotted. What I mean, is will it hold up in a crash? I know when I first bought my car, it definitly would not have held up in the front, due to the rotting wheel wells, and I was concerned about the saftey. I repaired the wells, and reinforced the wells.
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:15 PM   #13
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and all this is the reason behind the thread. Mike said if it'* anything structural the car is history.
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Old 12-06-2005, 07:41 PM   #14
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Anything structural that is not repairable for a reasonable price, lol.
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Old 12-19-2005, 06:55 PM   #15
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UPDATE! sorta


Well I went to make an appointment to get my exhaust patched, and the mechanic told me that I have to use the drive up hoist, they will no longer put my car on the regular hoist. I have not been able to get under the car to see but this was the mechanic that told Renee about the rusting out under the car.

From what he said, it is on the DRIVERs side, and it is the frame section that the trailing arm bolts into. I will get a chance to have a look on Thursday and see how bad it is and if it is repairable. I think the age is just catching up with it.


HEY randman or Boost, do any of you guys have a pic of Franky when all the work got done? I am looking to see the section where the trailing arm bolts to the frame on the drivers side.
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Old 12-19-2005, 07:33 PM   #16
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Go get a speed limit sign, patched the hole in the floor board of my old truck, and everytime I changed my oil I got a good laugh and a reminder to slowdown lol.
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Old 12-19-2005, 08:47 PM   #17
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Are you talking about the front or the rear? Here'* a couple of pics to get you started:

Rear control arms bolted to unibody:
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Driver'* side subframe rear mounts. Note this is the 97 subframe installed in the 90:
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:09 PM   #18
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It'* in the rear that the rust is attacking.
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:42 PM   #19
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Do you have a way of editing my pic to show where the damage is? Graphics program?

I'm certainly not an auto body guy but I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to cut some of the structure from a donor car and weld on to your car. Maybe I'm way off base on this though. Dunno
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Old 12-20-2005, 12:34 AM   #20
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I'd just cut and weld in new pieces, and patches, and work your way over the holes, and rust. Usually going this route, you can make it as strong as it originally was. Cutting and fitting pieces from donors and welding on your car, is too much of a hassle. Plus, you want good clean metal, not old weakened metal.

Yeah, my rear is rotting out in the trunk ares of the frame (surface). Next summer, its getting sandblasted, and some good paint under her. I might even do the rear suspension. Heck, even take everything outta there, and blast and paint it all up. That'd be nice, lol.
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