Had an issue with my drivers-side front window as well. Actually two different ones. A couple months ago, the window actually fell off its tracking so after "extracting" it out of the door with a few pairs of pliers (and two sets of hands I might add) to spread the load, few shots of duct tape held it in place until I had it put back in place.

Also, I occasionally have the exact same problem that was mentioned above where the window will go up a bit and then stop. I found it surprising since going back in the records for the car about four or five years ago (but before I owned the car) it had a new regulator put in and the motor swapped. Not sure what they did with the swap but I think it might have to do with the relays and the circuit itself since the motor and regulator seem too new for something to be wrong with them. BTW, 1990 LE version for me.

Older Bonnes ar notorious for slow, weak, failing window motors.
In my opinion your better off getting an improved aftermarket replacement with a life warranty.

Do you still have those photos ?? Both my front windows are DOA.... And I haven't a clue where to begin... I can hardly SEE into the door, much less get my hands in there !! Pontiac wants $400 per door !! I haven't rolled down the windows in 3 years because of that... They move down OK but on the way up they go really slow, then the little ball pops out of the socket, and the window drops to the bottom... :(

Thanks !

I'll have to look for the hard prints because I think I nuked the older photo files, or lost them in a HD crash.

I did scrape up my hands a little trying to get things out and then back in. There are around 5 rivets to drill out to remove the whole motor/regulator belt (nylon) from inside the door. There'* no other way to r/r the motor; it all has to come out. I also left the window up (taped) and worked the regulator rollers off the guides. This allows more room in the door for your hands.

Not difficult, original GM seem to have a built in circuit breaker that fails over time. Aftermarket is about $44.

Is time consuming to remove the door panel and all associated wiring. Remove the moisture barrier, tape the window up, punch the centers from the rivets, drill out the rivets, r&r the motor (90 has a tape drive and not a regulator) & reverse to install.

Is best to see the service manual for the exact process.

I drill things out a little and use 1/4-20 screws to replace the door rivets and 10-24 to attach the motor to the drive.

Two things make them slow - reduced power to motor and dragging tape drives.

Its twice as fast the second time around doing it.

I've got an 88 and I think its got some sort of "tape" system in it. There'* a narrow plastic "chain" in an L shaped track, seems really flimsy for a window of that size. Does that sound like a tape system ? Additionally, I'd like to R&R the window as well, because of a long scratch ( from the window mechanism I'm guessing) Windows are cheap enough, but how the heck does that sucker come out ? does the window frame come off ?

XM

Yes. The tape drive is very flimsy feeling. The aluminum track does not make a full oval, so it likes to flop around when the rivets are removed. And yes, use the machine screws to reinstall the motor and sheet metal screws to reinstall to the track assembly to the door. I think the motor instructions said the same.
I think if you remove the bottom stop on the window, it is supposed to lift up and tilt out of the door frame. Don't quote me. I haven't had to do one yet.

Well the old girl'* showing her age, but I
still like her, so I've got to fix these windows soon.
Who'* the best supplier for motors ? and does the
tape assembly come with it ? Thanks !

XM

I picked up a motor from the local parts store. The tape drive did not come with the motor; hence the removal of motor mount rivets and reinstall with #10 machine screws.