Okay this problem is happening on both rear doors. For some reason when the door handle button is pushed while the door is locked the door will not open. Before, after a while it seemed to fix itself after playing around with the power locks. I took apart the door panel and found that there was sort of a lever that pushes up to open the door. When it is pushed up by the handle while the doors locked that lever stays up in the open position and wont come back down so the door can be opened. Its kind of embarrasing when I have to pull my screw driver out of the glove box, in front of everybody and manually hit the lever down. Could there be more to this lever? Can it be missing a piece? Its really starting to **** me off. Anybody know whats wrong?

Several members have this problem with their 87-91 doors. Common issue. This is Randy'* [randman1], so I have to give the credit to him.

http://www.geocities.com/autotronics...e/SSEDoors.htm


-justin

In most cases 'round here, one of the springs looses it'* ability to effectively hold up one part of the assembly due to rust. The above pic is the latch assembly from driver'* side rear door on my car. This spring was totally gone on this one. I managed to fix it with parts for less than $1. Another member was able to bend the spring retaining piece of steel (left end on the spring in the pic) and install another spring without much trouble. His was still there, just not vert springy any more. Here'* some more reference:

http://www.bonnevilleclub.com/forum/...ic.php?t=23378

http://www.geocities.com/autotronics...e/SSEDoors.htm

Sounds to me more like the problem I have had, I posted this a while ago. Good luck

I know the solution to your problem, I have an 89 and just fixed mine. This is very common in the 88 to 91 model. Directly behind the button on the exterior door handle is a funny metal piece that hinges and pushes a rod that leads to the actual door mechanism, well this hinge has seized in the down (or pushed in position) due to corrosion. To open the door make sure it is locked first and then deliver some sort of hard blow to the door this will pop the metal piece back into place (I used a rubber mallet but you might like the appearance of the door so maybe just use your fist) then unlock and it should open as normal.
Unfortunately the problem will persist, so if you want it fixed you must tear your door completely apart and remove the handle to fix it. Their are three solutions to keeping the metal unit from seizing, one is to go to a junk yard and find new/used handles at 10 bucks a piece or you could lube the mechanism (but beware the problem will come back worse) or the best option is to drill out the pin that acts like a hinge, file down the corroded metal and put new bolts in (be sure to use stainless steel with locking nuts). Also it might be a good idea to lube up all the parts of the door mechanism while the door is apart. This is a 2 hour job per door with proper tools and you will get greasy. I am sure a mechanic would charge a handful, so if you are the least bit mechanical you could do it yourself and save.
So I hope this is helpful for you. If you are in the Minnesota area I could arrange to fix them for you for more than likely a lot less than a mechanic would charge. Good luck and if you have any additional questions feel free to ask.

Jonas

Since this weekend has been so good, I figured I would tackle fixing up the rear doors before I get the car on the road, so I don't have to carry around those damn door panels in the trunk or backseat.. Well, I got the doors open [somehow I managed to get the door panels off with the doors closed.. and somehow I managed to get into the back through the front.. but whatever], door panels off [obviously], water shield off, Torx bolts off [all 'cept one to close the doors overnight], and yet the window track is in the way. I read that large post with Randy and mdevour, and that didn't help.. I got those bolts off, tried a crow bar, but I can only get it to move 1/2" which isn't enough to remove the latch. It binds on the window.. and I don't know how having the window anywhere than all the way up could help remove the latch. How do I pull this sucker off?

Oh yeah, and what should I do about a water shield? Mine was fucked up once I got to it.. so what should I do about replacing it? And how should I attach it?


-justin

5 torx bolts need to be removed: 3 for the latch, one at the bottom of the window guide and one kinda in the middle of the window guide. Move the window guide forward, you only need an inch or so. With all 3 rods disconnected from the latch assembly, you should be able to lift the latch up (as high as it can go in the door), around the guide towards the outside door skin, and out the door.

Ah.. I think I see what I was doing wrong. The latch doesn't come out the bottom? I think that'* what I did wrong. I'll try that after I get back from Sears. Tools galoure!


-justin