code 14. plus a melted exploding pulley
#1
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code 14. plus a melted exploding pulley
as many of you'* probally read my story in (on the raod section ) my belt tensioner pulley melted and exploded into lil peices causing me to get stuck and my car to get way over heated.. so i bought a new pulley and put it on and it runs fine again but i hooked up the code scanner and now im getting code 14..
code 14- engine coollant sensor
now my question is if my engine coolant sensor is bad would this have caused the car to over heat and caused my belt tensioner to melt and break apart into lil peices..?
and also does code 14 mean my coolant sensor is bad.?
i do have a leaky radiator that i am replacing this weekend but there was not a single minute my car was with out any antifreeze. so how could it over heat.?
and this is what i got for code 14-
Code 14
1 flash, pause, 4 flashes
Coolant Sensor Circuit
(high temperature)
If the engine is experiencing overheating problems, have those fixed before continuing. &Check all wiring and connectors associated with the coolant temperature sensor. &Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.
thanks guy'* & gal'* in advance for your help..
code 14- engine coollant sensor
now my question is if my engine coolant sensor is bad would this have caused the car to over heat and caused my belt tensioner to melt and break apart into lil peices..?
and also does code 14 mean my coolant sensor is bad.?
i do have a leaky radiator that i am replacing this weekend but there was not a single minute my car was with out any antifreeze. so how could it over heat.?
and this is what i got for code 14-
Code 14
1 flash, pause, 4 flashes
Coolant Sensor Circuit
(high temperature)
If the engine is experiencing overheating problems, have those fixed before continuing. &Check all wiring and connectors associated with the coolant temperature sensor. &Replace the Coolant temperature sensor.
thanks guy'* & gal'* in advance for your help..
#2
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Just a wild guess, but I'd say the overheating was caused when the pulley let go, not the other way around.
No pulley + no water pump turning = overheat.
A temperature sensor doesn't regulate the engine'* temperature, only how the computer responds to what the sensor tells it. Unless parts have failed the cooling system temperature is regulated by the thermostat.
No pulley + no water pump turning = overheat.
A temperature sensor doesn't regulate the engine'* temperature, only how the computer responds to what the sensor tells it. Unless parts have failed the cooling system temperature is regulated by the thermostat.
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Originally Posted by bastard
Just a wild guess, but I'd say the overheating was caused when the pulley let go, not the other way around.
No pulley + no water pump turning = overheat.
A temperature sensor doesn't regulate the engine'* temperature, only how the computer responds to what the sensor tells it. Unless parts have failed the cooling system temperature is regulated by the thermostat.
No pulley + no water pump turning = overheat.
A temperature sensor doesn't regulate the engine'* temperature, only how the computer responds to what the sensor tells it. Unless parts have failed the cooling system temperature is regulated by the thermostat.
what else could be causing an over heating problem., because when my car over heated the temp gauge was well over the red line for over heating.. kinda looked like it was fighting to go more..
#4
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First off, if your radiator is leaking, what do you mean the antifreeze stays inside it? I don't understand that statement. What exactly is it leaking if not antifreeze? It seems like it will have to be one way or the other. Aside from the obvious leaking radiator have you checked for-
stuck thermostat?
failed waterpump?
clogged radiator or water jackets in the block or heads?
stuck thermostat?
failed waterpump?
clogged radiator or water jackets in the block or heads?
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My car kept overheating and it took me forever to find the pinhole leak in the radiator. The coolant seemed to flow fine and I only had to add coolant about once a week, but apparently it was enough to interrupt flow in the system. Once I dropped in a new rad, she runs cooler than ever.
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Have you disconnected the battery since the overheat? The sensor picked up the excessive temps and threw the code, which has been stored on your ECM ever since (if you haven't reset it by disconnecting the battery). I believe the code resets itself after 30 (or 50?) ignition cycles if the reason the code was set off in the first place (overheating) does not occur again.
Pull the battery cables, wait 30 minutes, reassemble, then drive. If the code comes back, then you may have fried the sensor when it overheated or something is running too hot. If the codes does go away, then you're golden.
Oh, and that little sensor is located near the throttle body on the UIM, to the right of the Idle Air Controller. It has one electrical harness, made of a brass-looking metal, and screws directly into the UIM. Its a tight fit to get tools at it to get it out tho...
Pull the battery cables, wait 30 minutes, reassemble, then drive. If the code comes back, then you may have fried the sensor when it overheated or something is running too hot. If the codes does go away, then you're golden.
Oh, and that little sensor is located near the throttle body on the UIM, to the right of the Idle Air Controller. It has one electrical harness, made of a brass-looking metal, and screws directly into the UIM. Its a tight fit to get tools at it to get it out tho...
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