Cleaned IAC, now there's a delay when hitting the gas - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 05-27-2005, 09:50 AM   #1
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Default Cleaned IAC, now there'* a delay when hitting the gas

Alright, I'm posting about this because this issue is now starting to worry me. So now I'm creating a thread for this problem. I cleaned my IAC. Took it out, cleaned it the best I could with some Goo Gone, and then some WD-40. Put it back in, tightened the screws, put the accordian hose back on, and I was done. I had also removed the fuse for the ECM [Fuse 17 if I remember correctly] while working on the IAC. I was told to test drive my car, and while doing that is when my CAM Sensor problem started happening.

It'* been 61 miles since I've cleaned my IAC, and here are the problems when I start my car after it being off for a couple of hours [typically the first start of the day.]

-- Car starts out at 1500rpm, then slowly goes down to about 1000rpm.
-- Car stays at 1000rpm until I shift.
-- Car stalls [this happens every time] right when I shift into either reverse or drive.
-- I restart the car, and then proceed to go. Car starts up no problem second time, and doesn't stall when shifting afterwards.
-- For the first couple of times hitting the gas pedal, the car hesitates for about 2 seconds, and then proceeds to move forward.

Accurately describing it, there are about 5 times I hit the gas going to the firehouse.
1) Hitting the gas from my house, to the second intersection where there'* a stop sign.
2) Hitting the gas after the stop sign.
3) Slowing down, then hitting the gas at the next intersection due to a small dip
4) Same, slow down, then gas again once passed a second small dip
5) Stopping at the street and turning right, then hitting the gas and I'm at the firehouse

The gas hesitated each time I hit the gas at those points. Then after the call, got back in my car and the car worked flawlessly.

I understand that I probably have a dirty TB, however I am not experienced enough to remove it and clean it thoroughly [and honestly don't have the money for any TB cleaner]. So I'm not going to be able to do it that way.

Why would these problems occur after cleaning the IAC, I was trying to help the car not hurt it.
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Old 05-27-2005, 04:04 PM   #2
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"Goo Gone"? I've never heard of that being used before. Usually it'* done with carb or TB cleaner. Maybe it'* not really perfectly clean yet, and that'* why you still get the stall?

As for the hesitation: Didn't you say that you think you lost your cam sensor magnet? And doesn't the cam sensor determine when to fire the injectors? My guess is that when you fix that, the hesitation will go away.
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Old 05-27-2005, 04:49 PM   #3
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TB cleaner is almost the same as carb cleaner...except it is designed for TB'* and lubricates as it cleans. Maybe $5 a can.

To clean my TB since I couldn't get a gasket the night I had to do some work...I removed the maf screen (not sure if you have one) then just held the butterfly open and hosed the cleaner around in there...two cans later the mud stopped running out.

To start the car after...put the pedal to the floor while cranking for a moment...then about 1/2 pedal to get fuel in there to start it back up. It'll run crappy for a couple moments...
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Old 05-27-2005, 04:58 PM   #4
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You said it'* fine now, right. Sounds like the car just relearned the idle of having a cleaner IAC passage. Did you move the IAC pintle in or out while you had it out? If so, you may need to take it back out and adjust it. I can't remember how long it should be.
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Old 05-27-2005, 05:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theJMFC
"Goo Gone"? I've never heard of that being used before. Usually it'* done with carb or TB cleaner. Maybe it'* not really perfectly clean yet, and that'* why you still get the stall?

As for the hesitation: Didn't you say that you think you lost your cam sensor magnet? And doesn't the cam sensor determine when to fire the injectors? My guess is that when you fix that, the hesitation will go away.
I was going to ask the same about the cam sensor magnet.... Once the ECM has been disconnected it loses its retained or learned values... When the Cam magnet goes, the ECM will use the last known good reading it had...

If this is not the case, clean the Throttle body still on the car with an old toothbrush and Throttle Body and Intake cleaner, make sure you remove the MAF sensor and set it in a safe place untill you are done... Clean the throttle bore and throttle plate( both sides )... If this does not solve the problem than you may need a new IAC, But a scantool may be able to tel you what the ECM is calling for and what is actually happening... Good Luck

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Old 05-27-2005, 07:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwikoff99
You said it'* fine now, right. Sounds like the car just relearned the idle of having a cleaner IAC passage. Did you move the IAC pintle in or out while you had it out? If so, you may need to take it back out and adjust it. I can't remember how long it should be.
No, the car isn't fine at all, I'm having a lot of problems regarding that, hehe. I don't believe I moved the pintle [is that the rod?] I didn't unhook it, was thinking about it but to me it felt like it wasn't budging, so I didn't force it thinking it can't come off. I did move the spring down to clean behind it, but I moved that back into position after cleaning. Regarding the CAM, well to be honest I'm not sure what the sensor does, I'm a noob when it comes to cars... however just to make sure the error wasn't a fluke, I unplugged my battery for 30 minutes to reset the ECM... so how could it retain the last setting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by theJMFC
"Goo Gone"? I've never heard of that being used before. Usually it'* done with carb or TB cleaner. Maybe it'* not really perfectly clean yet, and that'* why you still get the stall?

As for the hesitation: Didn't you say that you think you lost your cam sensor magnet? And doesn't the cam sensor determine when to fire the injectors? My guess is that when you fix that, the hesitation will go away.
Goo Gone is one of those "orange cleaners" that utilizes citrus to clean things. Just another powerful cleaning solvent that smells like oranges. I cleaned the IAC using that getting the bad stuff off, then lubed it with WD-40.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillBost37
TB cleaner is almost the same as carb cleaner...except it is designed for TB'* and lubricates as it cleans. Maybe $5 a can.

To clean my TB since I couldn't get a gasket the night I had to do some work...I removed the maf screen (not sure if you have one) then just held the butterfly open and hosed the cleaner around in there...two cans later the mud stopped running out.

To start the car after...put the pedal to the floor while cranking for a moment...then about 1/2 pedal to get fuel in there to start it back up. It'll run crappy for a couple moments...
MAF Screen, is that the screen that'* on the throttle body side when you remove the accordian hose? If so, I do have one of them then. I was actually thinking of removing it after what OSG recommended... My neighbor recommended that I use TB cleaner and spray it right where you're saying, so I may actually do that anyways.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jr's3800
Quote:
Originally Posted by theJMFC
"Goo Gone"? I've never heard of that being used before. Usually it'* done with carb or TB cleaner. Maybe it'* not really perfectly clean yet, and that'* why you still get the stall?

As for the hesitation: Didn't you say that you think you lost your cam sensor magnet? And doesn't the cam sensor determine when to fire the injectors? My guess is that when you fix that, the hesitation will go away.
I was going to ask the same about the cam sensor magnet.... Once the ECM has been disconnected it loses its retained or learned values... When the Cam magnet goes, the ECM will use the last known good reading it had...

If this is not the case, clean the Throttle body still on the car with an old toothbrush and Throttle Body and Intake cleaner, make sure you remove the MAF sensor and set it in a safe place untill you are done... Clean the throttle bore and throttle plate( both sides )... If this does not solve the problem than you may need a new IAC, But a scantool may be able to tel you what the ECM is calling for and what is actually happening... Good Luck
As I stated, after I reset the battery wouldn't the ECM have "forgotten" the last known setting that the car was running at? Just my thoughts. Where is the MAF sensor located at, and how easy is it to remove so I can clean the TB? I do not believe I'll be able to get my hands on a scan tool.
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Old 05-30-2005, 07:39 PM   #7
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The MAF sensor is on the throttle body, and has a smallish probe that sticks into the airflow. I'm not sure of it'* exact position on these cars, and I can't check mine because I've got a canoe tied to the top of my car. If you take off the MAF screen though, you should see from the inside where it is.
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Old 05-30-2005, 10:17 PM   #8
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Is this hesitation an instant problem as soon as you hit the throttle, or is it more like go-hesitate-go? A bad cam sensor "may" cause a hesitation, and possibly rougher idle and low speed performance. Once the rpm comes up the lack of a cam sensor signal makes little if any difference. If it is a go-hesitate-go type of performance, pull the MAF sensor and see if it is dirty or covered with "fuzz". I just swish the sensor tip in rubbing alcohol. If the car didn't have the symptons prior to the work you did, check the area you worked in to see if you dislodged something, maybe a vacuum hose which may also cause a high idle speed.
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Old 06-01-2005, 12:47 AM   #9
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Goo Gone is kerosene with fragrance. I know that doesn't matter but I had to say it.
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Old 06-01-2005, 04:15 AM   #10
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Thought I replied, I guess I had forgotten to. The idle has been varying different ways at different times. At one point I went under the hood, verified that everything was tightened, and the hesitation was gone. At another point is when I put a gasket on my IAC where it should be, still had no problems... however the IAC was not all the way in.

Then at one point the other day I had this really quick hesitation, not compared to the first one, this was much more subtle and you wouldn't hear a difference with the engine. Today when I started my car to go to work [after being off for 18 hours], and I had no hesitation at all. Then after being at work for 6 hours, then driving the car again I had the "bad hesitation" back, the one where the car seems to stutter and RPM'* drop then go back up...

Wow this is really strange.
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