No it didn't where the hell did you read that. He said.

Then he said

Which means that after his trip it died and he tried replacing module but it is still dead in the water.

So my opinion is to follow the other directions about checking to see if your fuel pump is still working and if that fuse is or isn't blown. No fuel pump running, no fuel, no go.


Is it just me or are people starting to just skim posts and NOT really read them before shooting out answers.

Try the troubleshooting described above for fuel pump and and fuses, since it will not cost you anything to test it. When you turn your key to the on position you will hear the pump running, it usually takes 2 people for this( one to turn the key on and one to listen at the gas tank for the hum of the pump) , and there is no need to actually crank the starter.

It may still be a sensor or ECM but no harm in testing and it is cheap.

The 20 Amp fuse under the glove box (passenger side) bottom row second from left controls the fuel pump AND the Ignition Control Module If it is bad are maybe just come loose you will get no Fire or Fuel. Nother way to check this is just pull your connector at the Ignition Module and check to see if you have 12 volts at terminal P (it is marked P and is a pink wire on the end on the passenger side of the connector) if you dont have a test light you can bend the prongs of a 12 volt automotive bulb and get a couple of peices of scrap wire, with one wire go from terminal P on the Ignition module harness to one of the prongs on the 12 volt bulb, from the other prong of the bulb go to a good ground. When the key is in the run position you should have an iliuminated bulb, if not dig ( about four fasteners to loosen to remove the insulating panel) under the glove box and check that fuse.

well ive got to admit you guys got some ideas...

ECM was fine...interchanged it with a 92 bonne computer. still didnt work. put old one back in. bought sensor but have to put it on. I could swear the 20A fuse was fine when i checked it but ill check again.

Yeah dude.. 88-91 ONLY.


-justin

Maybe there is some difference between the brand and the year, but I bought an 88 LeSabre that would not start from an auto repair shop. Turned out that the interrupter magnet for the cam sensor was trashed. When it was replaced, car was fine, but it would not start. I don't know if this is one of those one in six chance deals, but the symptoms do match.

The magnet can be checked with a 10mm deep socket, flashlight, mirror, and a big wrench to turn the crank. (Unplug the ICM for safety)

I have not experienced it first hand, but I am pretty sure the Cam Sensor is NOT required to run.. but like jrs3800 said, it will probably run like crap.

And yes, the Idiot lights are VERY obvious, VERY annoying, and VERY effective at warning you when something is wrong. Like when my brakes were shot, I had the red BRAKE, amber ABS, and amber SES [intermittent] and anyone who rode with me was like "Look, a light show on the dash!"


-justin

For What Its Worth, I have ran my 1988 "C" engine for over 7 years without a Cam Magnet. I just put some electrical tape over the SES.

Thats right 7 years, The cam sensor does not do that much, mainly part of the "Fast Start System". Car has always cranked right up and ran like a scalded cat. Fuel milage right up there close to factory specs.

mine ran fine with out the magnet. just studdered a bit if i jumped on it real good. only reason i replaced it was cause i thought it is what killed the car, it was really out of gas though. got it all put back together, drove the car a block, died again. eh, you live you learn.

well...put in exact computer that came with the car, changed the PROM into it...
replaced the crank sensor...still NOTHING!!! I dont understand.
Pretty soon im going to hit it with a B.F.H.!

HELP i need my car