Well I just got done replacing my rotors and brake pads today. I wish I had the money to get good rotors but I had to settle for the $15.00 ones at Napa. But at least I lost the shimmy that my car had when slowing down before. I believe my old rotors were slightly warped and had gotten hot before. The moron that owned the car before me had new brakes all the way around and didn't adjust the shoes on the back so the front was doing all the work. I drove the car like that for about 3 months then adjusted all the brakes and put on new shoes and pads. Wished I had of put the rotors on then but i'm definately glad I got them on now. Not bad for spending less than a $50 on the whole job.

Speaking of which, can you give me a quick break down on how to adjust the rear breaks once i've installed new ones? I did thema short time back and I haven't used my car much since then (it sits at home while i sit away at college) but i do want them to do some work back there.

If i remember right i have to spin that little adjuster wheel some in order to be sure iti'* in a good spot? or do i have to get the calipers to measure the diameter of the pads vs drum etc? (oh and by the way by adjusting i'm just talking about rear breaks)

Thanks a bunch, glad to see your car is in even better shape. We must treasure our ol' Bonnies!

Mike Diaz

I just spin the adjuster till the wheel won't spin and then back it off just a bit. Don't want the drum contacting the lining. The chilton manual says to adjust the lining and shoe to .050 in less than the inside drum diameter. I always guess by trial and error. Always test drive to make sure my lining aren't sticking. Somebody else here may have a better way but this is what works for me.

Egladman, you might be pleased with the way the 15.00 rotors hold up. We did a brake job on our 90 about 3 years ago with cheap rotors, then had the passenger side caliper sieze while making an 80 mile trip home and if I wouldnt have had to replace THAT rotor if it wasnt for that. I didnt replace the driver side, just the pads. Still stops true, no shimmy. For normal driving, I think the 15.00 rotors are great. If I was using the car for severe duty (which I am not presently) I might have tried to save/procure slotted or drilled rotors. But these work fine Sounds like you did a great job

Actually, when you are adjusting the the rear brakes, you will want to feel a slight drag when the lining comes in contact with the brake drum. Otherwise, it sounds like you did a very good brake job.

Well I've got about 1000 miles on the new brakes and i'm not sure if I like them very well. I made a high speed run home from church today and after doing some major braking action when I got done I had the pedal going clear to the floor and when I got home and got out of the car and noticed I had smoke coming off the rotors. Wish I had the money for some of those slotted rotors. Oh well for 30 bucks i'll not complain. Plus they got me stopped so I guess that'* all that really matters.

With self adjusting (most are) drum brakes I tighten until they drag, back off until just no drag at all, then make a few 25 mph gentle stops to bed the brakes, then a few in reverse from 5 mph (adjusters work in reverse), then try to avoid hard stops for about 50 miles. Seems to work for me.

hehe...Brake smokeage...gotta love it. I did the same thing once coming down I-17 at night, new to mountain driving and rode the brakes all the way from Flagstaff to Cordes junction rest stop...when I REALLY needed to get out for a few..brakes were smoking then too LOL.

Did the braking come back when they cooled off?

Yeah the brakes are still working just fine. Just made a few hard stops is all.