My 92 oldsmobile 88 Royale ls won't start had flashing security light I replaced the whole steering column now it still won't start but the security light isn't flashing it is on but not flashing wen I turn the new key to the run position the starter won't engage but I can jump start it with a screw driver and it starts n dies right away someone please help

I have a guess as to what is going on, however it carries several assumptions, based on a common series of events.

The continuously flashing security light and a no start condition typically indicates that the properly functioning theft deterrent module (big assumption here) is not reading any resistance across the resistor pellet in the key AT ALL. Typically what happens is that the small wires at the ignition cylinder break, causing the condition. Most will typically cut the wires going to the ignition cylinder, splice in the appropriate resistance that the TDM is expecting to see (chart and details in the link), and the car continues to start like normal, but no longer benefits from the passive theft system feature.

Link (a big sales pitch, but gives an idea how the system works):
My Business - ??????Security light on? Car not starting? Everything else works like it should? You probably have a failed security system... This is a very common problem on GM vehicles. You'll find some useful tips and bypass methods below. Welcom

A steady security light indicates either a fault of the system, or a lockout has been triggered (on a properly functioning TDM). The lockout typically lasts approximately 3 minutes, and in my case, the security light remained on even after turning the ignition back off, until the lockout cleared. A lockout will typically trigger if the resistance is read, and is not the expected value.

If you replaced everything in the column, including the compromised ignition cylinder, then my guess is that you are using a new key that came with the new (to the car) column. If that is the case, this is likely the cause for the issue.

You are left with 3 options at this point. Assuming a now properly functioning passkey system, you can have new keys cut with the new key pattern, and the original key resistance pellet value. You can bypass the key portion of the system using a series of resistors to match the original key. Or finally, you can completely remove the Theft Deterrent system all together, using a module that generates the fuel enable signal all the time in place of the TDM, and bypass the starter enable relay.

If you want to retain stock functionality at this point, your only option is to have keys made that use the resistance value of the original keys, with the cut of the new keys for the cylinder just put in. The system should then work properly from then on, until it breaks again.

Like Rjolly says, you have several options.....

If you are using the key that came with the column, it'* possible it doesn't have the same resistance as the original key.....or you could have inherited a problem that was in the replacement column, a wire broken....

Cheapest way out is to install a resistor(same resistance as original key) in the column circuit, eliminating the lock cylinder and key....

Cars back up and running with the resistor trick but an FYI to anyone when you go get the resistors remember to bring a multi reader with to get the right ones bc my key would only read at 20k kohms on the reader and read 298 kohms but at 20k kohms the resistors read different so be smart like I did not bring a reader with to radio shack or wherever like I did but once again thank you all for the help

For getting the resistance dialed in (sounds like you already did), I referred to the chart when I did mine, and I believe the TDM allows a 10% variance as I understand it. Given that most resistors have a 5% tolerance, it can get tricky. I think I got some smaller value resistors as well to make up the difference.