I've been having trouble with my keyless entry messing up and not wanting to work for about 2 weeks now, and today it finally decided to take a crap on me. It was acting as if the battery was going dead in the remote so I replaced it and went to reprogram it and nothing happened. I grabbed one of the other remotes that came with the car and none of them worked anymore either. Now none of my remotes will do anything and I can't happen to find anybody whose had this problem on here. Does anybody have any idea what could've happened to it?

I've pulled the RCDLR out of the trunk and there seems to be no visable damage to it. So, can anybody here tell me what fuses I could possibly look for that would have to do with the remote entry?

You can try some of the various links here and see if it helps you out.
Keyless Entry

Yeah, I've tried all of most of those and the car doesn't see the remotes. The doors still lock and the trunk still opens from the inside buttons. Before it went out, it acted like when the batteries go, like I had to be real close and sometimes it wouldn't work. Then it just died and hasn't worked since then. I have new batteries in all the remotes but none of them will work, even if I hold the lock and unlock like you're supposed to. Are there any fuses besides number 29 in the back fuse panel that deal with the RCDLR?

Now I'm really confused. I just pulled every fuse in the back fuse box and not one is blown.

Unfortunately you may be looking at a trip to the dealer for this. If the RCDLR is defective it will need to be replaced and a Tech 2 is required to set-up the fobs again. If the module has "forgotten" the fobs for some reason, you still need a Tech 2 to reprogram them but I don't believe this isn't a common situation. I haven't heard of many cases of this occurring.

It'* not surprising that you didn't find a bad fuse, unless you have other problems with your vehicle. The RCDLR doesn't have a fuse of its own and therefore if it were bad, you'd also have other things not working in your car.

The RCDLR is a Class 2 serial device. There are two serial lines running to this device so it'* unlikely a data bus wiring issue (due to the redundancy). By pulling the RCDLR out of your vehicle, you will have set a DTC. Under normal circumstances, this will clear on its own after 50 ignition cycles with no problem (IIRC).

What do you mean by set a DTC?

A DTC is a Diagnostic Trouble Code. These are the codes which are set in the vehicle if a problem is detected. They can then be retrieved using a scan tool. Because the RCDLR is a Class 2 module, it will send out a SOH (State of Health) message regularly. This way other modules in the vehicle know it'* there and operating. If the other modules fail to see its SOH message on the data bus, they will set the DTC. In this case, likely a "Loss of Serial Communication" specific to the RCDLR. If you go to the dealer, they may find this code and interpret it as being part of the root cause of your complaint.

Modules also have the ability to set a number of different DTC'* if a problem is detected. These can be of significant help with troubleshooting. Each code will have a specific meaning.