2003 blowing warm not hot air
#1
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Location: Merrill, WI
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2003 blowing warm not hot air
Let me start out by saying i just got this car and i am having a problem getting hot heat, the coolant system was just flushed because of the recent intake work . My temp gauge doesnt get over 150 degrees and i am thinking i am not getting hot air because my coolant isnt getting hot enough. What are your thoughts on this?
#2
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True Car Nut
Have you had it checked for trouble codes?
Did you remove the thermostat when you had intake work done?
It is possible the thermostat is sticking open, I have heard of some replacing the OE 195F thermostats with 180F, and even 160F'*, but they usually do not drop to a 160F unless they have done some modding to the car, and had it tuned.
I'd get a new thermostat and pop it in there, just be sure it is a 195F degree thermostat, then bleed the air out of the system.
Did you remove the thermostat when you had intake work done?
It is possible the thermostat is sticking open, I have heard of some replacing the OE 195F thermostats with 180F, and even 160F'*, but they usually do not drop to a 160F unless they have done some modding to the car, and had it tuned.
I'd get a new thermostat and pop it in there, just be sure it is a 195F degree thermostat, then bleed the air out of the system.
#3
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I just bought it a couple weeks ago so i dont know if they removed the thermostat when they did the intake. I did end up replacing the thermostat this morning and that took care of the problem but i did not bleed the air out. Is that necessary to do?
#4
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True Car Nut
yes you have a screw you have open when filling it by the thermostat. now you can try running it for a few minutes with the cap off and the front kind of elevated. not good to have air pockets.
#5
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True Car Nut
Yes you want to bleed it as JW said, air pockets can cause overheating, and issues with the coolant, especially if you used DexCool again.
When I bled mine I drilled a 3/32" hole inside the gasket area of the stat, at what was going to be the 12 o'clock position of the thermostat when installed, then I just squeezed the upper rad hose a few times, and added more coolant after I was sure all of the air was removed.
To be extra sure I started the car and let it run for about a minute, since you do not have a hole drilled into your maybe 2 minutes of so, you want to start bleeding it as soon as the thermostat opens, be careful though as the coolant will be hot, and could easily burn you, I'd wear gloves, twist open the bleeder screw till you see coolant, and air bubbles coming out, as soon as you see a straight stream of coolant you can tighten the screw, after that let the system cool off for around 30 minutes or so, then pop the rad cap off and top it off if the level has dropped.
I did this, and then the next day I repeated the process to be sure I had no air in the system.
Many will do it in a bit simpler method, but this is the way I chose to do mine, and I have not had an issue with it at all, and it has been 2 years plus..
When I bled mine I drilled a 3/32" hole inside the gasket area of the stat, at what was going to be the 12 o'clock position of the thermostat when installed, then I just squeezed the upper rad hose a few times, and added more coolant after I was sure all of the air was removed.
To be extra sure I started the car and let it run for about a minute, since you do not have a hole drilled into your maybe 2 minutes of so, you want to start bleeding it as soon as the thermostat opens, be careful though as the coolant will be hot, and could easily burn you, I'd wear gloves, twist open the bleeder screw till you see coolant, and air bubbles coming out, as soon as you see a straight stream of coolant you can tighten the screw, after that let the system cool off for around 30 minutes or so, then pop the rad cap off and top it off if the level has dropped.
I did this, and then the next day I repeated the process to be sure I had no air in the system.
Many will do it in a bit simpler method, but this is the way I chose to do mine, and I have not had an issue with it at all, and it has been 2 years plus..
#6
Senior Member
This is the tool to get........
Attach funnel.....add coolant until very bottom of funnrl has coolant......start car.....add coolant as necessary to just cover the bottom.....now as coolant heats and expands, the level will rise slightly in the funnel.....when the engine gets hot enough for the thermostat to open, then the fluid will drop in the funnel quickly....add coolant until bottom of funnel is covered.....stick the stopper handle in the funnel and remove the funnel(car is still running)..... remove the adapters and install radiator cap......no jacking of the engine involved.....easy peasy, lemon squeezy.....
Attach funnel.....add coolant until very bottom of funnrl has coolant......start car.....add coolant as necessary to just cover the bottom.....now as coolant heats and expands, the level will rise slightly in the funnel.....when the engine gets hot enough for the thermostat to open, then the fluid will drop in the funnel quickly....add coolant until bottom of funnel is covered.....stick the stopper handle in the funnel and remove the funnel(car is still running)..... remove the adapters and install radiator cap......no jacking of the engine involved.....easy peasy, lemon squeezy.....
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WilliamE (02-05-2015)
#7
Senior Member
Posts like a Turbo
I had the same issue but my stat was not opening. Just let it run and open the bleeder valve until coolant comes out then close it. You can do that a few times to make sure all the air is out.
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