no idle change whie spraying carb cleaner.. it raised once or twice, but could not be duplicated ever again..

whats the lowest the OIL pressure gauge should read WHILE IDLING? mine touched the solid line BELOW the "40" line. its misses while idling, and I noticed i can accelerate if i do it slowly ( which doesnt allow me to go over "0" on boost. if i give it gas at a moderate pace and force the bost to go up is when it missses and stumbles... any more suggestions guys? could it be my */C ? i just added sea foam to my tank, and im going to put my old plugs in and do the seafoam through myintake, run it free of smoke, and put my new ngk'* back in..

Will the ac delco platinums ( 2k miles old ) cause any problems for the 30 minutes they will be in there ? im running out of things it could be..

HELP !!

Car running worse than ever. After spraying with the carb and choke cleaner and turning it off i went back out to it about 10 minutes later. It seems like it wants to stall in Park and Neutrul and runs horriblely, like it did before I did ANYTHING.

Fuel pressure was between 34 and 41 at idle and while pressing in throttle, never went above 42, never below 35. , and my oil pressure at idle while stumbling was sometimes slightly BELOW the line BELOW the "40 line"

Now im worried.

No codes came through paper clip test.. this car is getting me depressed..

to recap.. new pcv, new wires, new plugs, cleaned MAF, cleaned whole throttle body, sea foam in tank, checked coils.. im STUMPED.. fuel pressure seems low.. but i dunno anymore.. I made so much progress and now it alllll went away.. worse than ever.. if i give it any throttle is pauses, stumbles, pushes through it for a second, accelerates, then goes through it all again..

WHAT IS THE electronic sensor located right behind the pcv valve, ( about 1 inch higher and behind the supercharger ( near the FPR )? SEE PIC ABOVE.. its the sensor RIGHT above the PCV valve in the pic.. i may have gotten carb cleaner in that sensor..

HB FRONT moves freely with belt on ( Pulley part not moving ) is this normal ?
does not seem worn

Watch this video:

http://statusplease.info/media/MVI_0871.AVI

The number that the needle is right under is " 40 " in case it is too small to see

That thing sure is making a racket under the hood.

You mentioned the HB. Are you saying that the part that the belt rides on moves independently of the part attached to the crank? A very little bit of play there is normal, since there is a rubber isolator between the two. If you can actually spin the outer part at all though, your HB is dead, and you need a new one. IF that'* what you were saying is happening.

Also, did you say Carb cleaner? As opposed to Throttle Body cleaner? Any chance that got on your MAF sensor? Could explain the recent episode. Better to use TB cleaner on a fuel injected engine. Carb cleaner leaves a lubricating film, or so I read. You might try cleaning the MAF carefully with a Q-tip and rubbing alcohol, see if that helps.

Like Bill said, the fuel pressure is not low enough to cause your issues.

The oil pressure may not be great, but GM dash gages aren't all that accurate. You won't know until you put a mechanical gage on it. Even then though, if it were that bad, you'd be seized or knocking, not just stumbling at high throttle conditions.

no chance that i got the carb cleaner on the MAF, intake was on and i tried to only get it on the vacuum lines. it really feels fuel related. It seems like it misses, but if i keep the throttle at the position or give a little more throttle it goes.. WOT gets more of a reaction then 80%.. but not as fast/smooth as i think it should be.

So basically, I am good if I give it 30% throttle or less, or WOT..

I think the oil pressure was reading so low because i was temporarily running the car without a thermostat and it was getting to the line after the 200 line. ( it would hit that line with the old thermostat though. I just put a new 195 and gasket in and it stays right at 200, and oil pressure is 40 - 60 now. BUTTTT... i left that purge valve open on the thermostat housing and it totally backed itself out and disappeared.. so i have to re-fill the radiator when cold, and get that brass bolt from a junker tomorrow before i can do anything...

Im taking this thing to a mechanic on FRIDAY if i cant figure this out tomorrow.

Im going to take the vacuum fittings off ( new) and replace the entire line with rubber hose ( instead of using stock thin metal lines, with new connection fittings only )

I took the MAF off for a sec and didnt notice any real difference. When I plugged it back in while running it jumped the idle for a split second, but thats it.

The coupler is reall bad.. I really want to get a reman SC but i wont drop that 395 until the engine is sound ( dont have extra money to throw away in a car i might just get rid off, ya know? )

AS FAR AS THE HB: I can spin the FACE of it, of course i cant spin the part the belt rides on bc of the belt tension ( have not tried it while off ) SHOULD I ? Exact procedures?

THANKS GUYS !!!!!

Sorry, I misunderstood. I thought for some reason that you had sprayed the inside of your intake with carb cleaner.
I don't think that'* right. The so-called face of the HB should be attached firmly to either the outer rim (where the belt rides), or the inner hub (firmly attached to the crankshaft). Without looking at mine out in the dark, I can only guess that you're spinning the rubber part that attaches/cushions the two. And though I can't say for sure, my mind tells me that it shouldn't be spinning. Hopefully someone can verify that for us.

If your HB is shot, I don't know if it can account for all of your troubles, but it can't be helping.

fixed!

it was the coil pack.. replaced with ac delco, runs strong.

BUT i did get an error code of " 34 " when scanned today at the shop.

" Circuit two low " MAF

but its clean and running good. Any ideas?


( BTW ) all the packs i used and tested came back good... and they were bad..

Ah, it'* nice to be right (at least once in a while, anyway).

For the MAF error code, I'd check the electrical connector and clear the error code. If it reoccurs, remove and clean or replace the MAF sensor.

Coil pack troubleshooting per Techinfo won't always find a bad coil. They break down under load or heat sometimes.

I lost one two weeks ago in this manner.

well thanks guys.. atleast its had a FULL tune up while searching for the biggest problem.. still think my fuel pump is a little on the weak side with readings of 35-40 but what an you do..

I never knew how awesome these cars perform when running good.. boost is NIIIIICE.

its hits the yellow though on full boost.... normal??

also.. what plugs into the 3 prongs on the Drivers side side of the alternator.. mine has nothing plugged in to and it looks like a plug should be on it??