Tell us the fuse numbers and locations...

We have four fuses here.

RH Underhood fuse block - Fuse 3, 30 amp - Blower control module fuse
Under steering wheel fuse block - Fuse 17, 25 amp - Hot in run - to the programmer
Under steering wheel fuse block - Fuse 11, 15 amp - Hot at all times - to the programmer
Passenger side relay center - Fuse 1, 10 amp - Blower feedback between the motor, blower control module, and programmer.

Does plugging the fan motor in cause these fuses to blow?

What was bypassed? The blower control module?

The only thing I know is that it is on the passenger side right behind the glove box. The sticker on the cover shows that position as "A/C Programmer, 10 Amp". I didn't notice a number. It is getting power to that fuse. So I think that something between that fuse and the wire is blown. Yes, after I plugged in the fan motor I got no power to the wire. Apparently the 10 amp that was blown was replaced by the mechanic, it ran for a minute or two, then blew.

OK, that is the fuse that is in the feedback loop.

We need to know what the voltage at the fan does as you select the different fan speeds 1-5. This will tell us if the blower control module is there, working correctly, or bypassed. Of course, you need the fuses there to be able to test the power. And it sounds like if you plug the fan back in it blows the fuses, so don't do it!

If it does work OK, I would suspect the fan motor.

As far as where the HVAC programmer physically is, here are a couple pictures from when I had my dashboard completely out. I had already removed the HVAC programmer in these, but you can see exactly where it goes.

In this one, if you look to the right, you can see the air box with the Huge GM white barcode sticker on it. Normally the programmer sits directly the the right of it.

http://www.bonnevillestore.com/inter...t/DSC00004.JPG

Heres an even better shot. You can see where its missing. It slides right in between the black air box with the bar code on it, and the white plstic piece runing up and down with all the wires on it.

http://www.bonnevillestore.com/inter...t/DSC00007.JPG

Hope those help.

Okay, is there another place I can test the power since I am getting none to the wire to the blower? No fuses blown, but no power to the blower. I have a section of the insulation of the purple wire where I put my positive lead, the ground the other lead. I know this way works because I was getting a reading, now none.

Thank Chris, those pics do help!!

Hmmm. If no fuses are blown, I am wondering what is going on here. Is the HVAC still operating inside the car?

Do you know where the blower control module is? We need to test the wires at the module.

Red: 12V
Black: Ground
Grey and Black: Should be at 8V when the HVAC is set to high fan speed. This is the signal from the programmer.
Purple: If the module is connected, should read 12V. This is the wire that goes to the fan.

Yeah, the HVAC is still operating inside the car, and no, I don't know where the blower control module is.

OK, the service manual says it is under the center rear of the engine compartment, below the passenger side fuse block. The blower motor, of course, is under the driver side fuse block.

Right. Find the blower motor, the round object more-or-less in the center of the firewall. It'* set into one end of the evaporator/heater core housing. Follow the housing along toward the passenger'* side, and set into the top side of it, maybe no more than a foot away from the blower, is the blower controller pack. It'* a plate with two or more wires plugged into it (depending on type) and three screws holding it in. The Maxifuse/Relay Center cover kind of overhangs it so it can be a little hard to see at first.

Manual-control HVAC cars use a resistor pack in that hole; the electronically-controlled cars have an electronic pack in that hole, with a large aluminum heat-sink casting. To remove either you just unplug the wiring connector and unscrew the screws. The radiator-like thingy inside that you will be able to see through the hole is your A/C evaporator core.

Okay, I'll check that out. I took the blower motor out and lubed up the bearing with WD-40, and right now I have the blower hot-wired to the battery on a toggle switch and I have cold air now. I'll do some testing on the module, volt and ohm reading.