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Old 08-31-2005, 03:52 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by auroradude
it looks like a BMW 740iL from the front like that. Very nice lights..they probably cost a good few hundred just for them.
Thanks. I bought mine for 75 bucks but the headlight adjusters were broke. I had to take the headlights apart to fit anyways so it didn't bother me.
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Old 08-31-2005, 09:22 PM   #22
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Ok, I guess I'll post this here so other people might be able to find it.
I bought all of my parts off ebay. The solenoids and hardware are similar to what you see in this picture:
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They are only 15 lb solenoids but they have lasted me over a year and a half already.
My remote transmitter and the two relays for each of the front doors looks like this:

The kit came with 4 function remotes with 2 buttons. You would have to use a combination of the two or repeat the first button to get the other 2 two functions.
Some things I learned while playing around with different parts and ways to install:
• The leaver that attaches to the actual door handle rod has given me the most success.
▫ You will have to remove the rod (disable the handle) to connect the solenoid effectively.
▫ Having the solenoid directly below this leaver and mounted to the bottom of the door is ideal. If you take the long metal strip shown above and bend it 75° or so, you can mount the solenoid at a good angle to the leaver and mount it securely to the bottom of the door. Make sure it is out of the way of the window.
• The 45 lb solenoids that I have bought (Might be Spal?) will not pull with 12 volts. You have to push them in slightly and then they will pull hard but they will not pull by themselves.
• The "poppers" or the springs that actually push the door open prove to make more maintenance. The poppers are always pushing the door out and this actually puts force against opening the latch. You can get it to work but the poppers have to be much finer tuned. (Fixing it every month or so) After I took the poppers out I never had to adjust the poppers/mounting again. (It has been at least 6 months) When the solenoid opens the latch it pushes the door open enough to put your fingers behind the door to open it. So, they are really not needed.
• The rear doors.
▫ The rear latches are much harder to do IMO. The latch actually requires a longer pull than the front. I have had the door panels off a couple times to try it but never ended up going through with it. I'm sure it'* possible with a solenoid that has a long pull but it'* not worth the hassle to me. I just reach in and the inside rear handle is easy to get to.
• The wiring diagram will come with the remote transmitter in a kit. It was more tedious than anything else to me. I would suggest getting 5 prong relay plugs to make it easier on yourself if the kit doesn’t come with them.
• If the solenoid connecting wire has too much play, it will stick open. This means your latch will stick open and you will not be able to close the door. So, make sure you leave as little slack as possible.
▫ If this does happen you can shut the door by locking it first but you are going to have to remove the door panel with the door closed. (Really hard)
• You will almost certianly have to fine tune everything over the first month or so. I would suggest leaving your panels off till you work out all the kinks.

That is all I can really think of right now.
Any other questions just let me know.
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