'67 Corvair Monza 110 Project underway! - Page 2 - GM Forum - Buick, Cadillac, Chev, Olds, GMC & Pontiac chat


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Old 01-17-2008, 02:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tripscarcare95
Looks like a nice money pit you found there,
yep my thoughts exactly
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Old 01-17-2008, 02:52 PM   #12
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now you just need some of these parts: http://binghamton.craigslist.org/pts/542061690.html
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Old 01-17-2008, 03:22 PM   #13
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Ooh, Turbo parts. oddly enough, I wouldn't want a Turbo engine. They are hard to keep running properly, so I chose the 110hp 2 carb. not exactly a money pit, just something to keep me busy.
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Old 01-18-2008, 01:32 AM   #14
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First parts on order soon!

Front Passenger and Driver floorpan sheetmetal, OEM thickness and fit. $200. (Rear pans are clean)
Floor supports - $120

Not too shabby, was expected, floor rust is quite common.

Up next (March/April) - rear corner 1/4 panel repair pieces, and Bondo!, then car is being sent to my dad'* friends house, where we are gonna fix the floors, and put the new 1/4 panel repair pieces on, clean rust up around windshield and rear window, and prep for a paintjob. Cost of paintjob you say? All we have to buy is the paint supplies, Dad'* friend is painting it for FREE.

Budget was officially bumped to $2000.
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:26 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonneville92V688
Budget was officially bumped to $2000.

... and so it begins...
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Old 01-18-2008, 04:47 PM   #16
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Corvair + Snow = Whaddaya, nuts?!?!
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:21 PM   #17
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I hope you are able to get it done for under 2g but I don't see it happening. Don't use POR15 either. Someone put that on my '66 Mustang and I had to peel it all off. I could kill them. The POR15 allows the metal to rust under it. I was able to peel it off in SHEETS in the engine bay and undercarriage and the stuff is supposed to stick to surface rust, clean metal, everything but grease the way I understand it. I have stripped it all off and properly prepared the surface for epoxy primer. This is a much better alternative. Also, please don't bondo over any rust, always fix it with metal, you will thank yourself later. Make sure your weldor is decent too because a lot of people treat a MIG like a hot glue gun and think that if the metal sticks together, its good. Well, its not. Have someone weld it that has experience, or take a class yourself, practice alot, and then do it. I can post some pictures for you of what the welds will look like when your settings are off, metal is dirty, etc... Many times the welds look and feel solid but they aren't. Have fun with the project and let us know exactly how far over budget it went.
Grant
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Old 01-18-2008, 09:40 PM   #18
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Actually, my Dad did the math, and with the welding costs and paint job being free, it saved ALOT of money. The floor is gonna have a total of about $400 to repair. Body repairs about $400, and the rest is small work. Any pieces that cannot be replaced with sheetmetal will be Bondo'ed, which will be small spots. I think the $2k is very reasonable, as the car isn't being "restored" per se, just enough to make it a nice driver. BTW the welder we know previously owned a body shop for 25 years, so we trust him. He is also the one painting it.

So then no POR-15?
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Old 01-18-2008, 10:56 PM   #19
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Forgot to mention, Don't be surprised or think I am dead if I am gone for a while. The car is heading over to my Dad'* friends house in a few weeks, and we will be over there quite a bit, so being on BC is gonna be a rare thing until we get the floor and rust work done. It could be anywhere from 2-3 weeks, maybe a month. All the suspension is coming off, so we can blast the underside, and prep for POR-15 or maybe just primer and a rust preventer.
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Old 01-18-2008, 11:58 PM   #20
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I always thought those corvairs were pretty slick lookin' cars. A better project than that caprice!
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