2008 GMC Acadia help dignosing after changing alternator still no crank or start.
#1
2008 GMC Acadia help dignosing after changing alternator still no crank or start.
Hello I am needing some help diagnosing my acadia. The car went into battery saver mode on our way home. At the time I assumed alternator because killed a cell in a new battery. I changed the alternator and the starter in the process. never started with new starter and alternator but run for a couple of cycles before bogging down also not eveytime did it try to turn over, it would just click unless i tried messing around with the connects or every so often i an hear the fuel pump engage but no turn on the starter. Could this be a timing issue gone worse o could this be purely electrical and relays
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CathedralCub (02-17-2024)
#2
Senior Member
I can't tell what you are saying. What is it doing right now?
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CathedralCub (02-17-2024)
#3
Senior Member
True Car Nut
Wait, this needs to be taken apart:
2008 Acadia?
How many miles on it?
How many miles have you owned it?
If it "killed a cell in new battery", was the battery replaced after this event?
Was the battery replaced shortly before this event?
If "yes" above, why was the battery replaced shortly before this event?
Why was the alternator replaced? Was it supplying low voltage while commanded to charge?
Why was the starter replaced?
This statement is confusing. I bet many of us reading wonder how it never started but then ran for a couple of cycles. Let'* settle on some terminology so that we all understand one-another:
Crank = the part where the starter turns the engine before the engine runs on its own
Turn-over = same as "crank"
Fire = the part where the engine begins to run on its own
Start = same as "Fire"
Run = the part where the engine continues to run on its own, or at least should do so
This sounds like an electrical issue and/or a bad or dead battery.
Has the battery been replaced since all of this happened?
This sounds like yet another issue, possibly bad fuel pump or fuel pump relay? Not sure yet though.
Let'* step back and think of this logically. In one post, you have identified possible problems with the battery, alternator, starter, fuel pump, timing, electrical, and relays. This car did not have all of these things go out at once. We have not yet seen any actual diagnosis done on this vehicle to guide any parts replacements, such as:
- Low voltage while engine is running = maybe alternator is bad
- Engine won't crank after battery tests okay and connections are confirmed good and clean = maybe starter is bad
- Fuel pressure does not come up appropriately when ignition switch is turned to "run" = maybe fuel pump and/or relay and/or electrical has an issue
- Codes indicate commanded cam advancement is not having the required result = maybe timing issues
If you used new parts, by my count you are probably at least $500.00 into this issue, without having diagnosed with a meter ($10.00), fuel pressure gauge ($30.00), or OBD2 scanner ($30.00).
I suggest it would be a good idea to step back and go through some diagnostic steps before continuing to throw parts and guesses at it. We are happy to help.
2008 Acadia?
How many miles on it?
How many miles have you owned it?
Was the battery replaced shortly before this event?
If "yes" above, why was the battery replaced shortly before this event?
Why was the alternator replaced? Was it supplying low voltage while commanded to charge?
Why was the starter replaced?
Crank = the part where the starter turns the engine before the engine runs on its own
Turn-over = same as "crank"
Fire = the part where the engine begins to run on its own
Start = same as "Fire"
Run = the part where the engine continues to run on its own, or at least should do so
Has the battery been replaced since all of this happened?
- Low voltage while engine is running = maybe alternator is bad
- Engine won't crank after battery tests okay and connections are confirmed good and clean = maybe starter is bad
- Fuel pressure does not come up appropriately when ignition switch is turned to "run" = maybe fuel pump and/or relay and/or electrical has an issue
- Codes indicate commanded cam advancement is not having the required result = maybe timing issues
If you used new parts, by my count you are probably at least $500.00 into this issue, without having diagnosed with a meter ($10.00), fuel pressure gauge ($30.00), or OBD2 scanner ($30.00).
I suggest it would be a good idea to step back and go through some diagnostic steps before continuing to throw parts and guesses at it. We are happy to help.
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Malicious Kur
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02-25-2004 10:11 PM