Ok so I got the master cylinder in and the car stops better, but it seem like it'* still low on pressure when I first start driving it takes a couple stops and pumps to work good. Once it gets working good it will lock up the brakes. But on first stops I need to put the pedal 3/4 down. Could this be caused by air in the lines? I bled the master cylinder only but not the wheels? I'm pretty sure my pads are glazed but that doesn't explaint the low stoping power

you have to bleed all the wheels as well

You bled the master on the bench, which is good. Then you unhooked the brake lines, introduced air and didn't bleed them. I'm sure with my typing like that you can see the error of your ways.

Bleed it well.

Find a helper and bleed them all.

Better than any helper is a power bleeder. If you ever use one, you won't be able to go back.
http://store.motiveproducts.com/storefront.aspx

One day I will get one of those.

I may just go the lazy man route and stop at pepboys later and have them bleed them as I can't get anyone to help me till then

So hopefully that'* all it is


Thanks guys

I bleed brakes single handed by taking the top off the master cylinder then opening the bleed screw on each wheel in turn until I get air free fluid from them.
This has worked on almost every vehicle I have worked (some ABS equipped) on including a range of American cars.
If anyone cares this doesn't work on Rolls Royce and some Citroen models.

Roger.

Darn. I was going to bleed the brakes on the Rolls tonight. Now I will have to get some help.

called 2 shops today to check prices on bleeding the brakes for me. one was $49 and the other told me it was impossible to bleed brakes without doing a flush

lmao so i will do them again this weekend